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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Wright and Tom Hanson, 1997
Page Views: 1,735 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start in the huge, left-facing dihedral at the North end of the Headstone.

P1 (90 feet) runs up on 5.11/5.10 climbing over a system of rounded ledges.

P2 (90 feet) chases toward the top on similar climbing.

Compared to many things on Devil's Head, this route will seem run-out (7-8 draws per pitch), but the feet are good, and all of the clips are from stances, so just stay in tune and ride it up. The rock is very sound, and the moves enjoyable. I thought it was fun. It keeps the shade and can be the only thing climable on the Headstone on a hot day.

Protection

QDs only. This two pitch route needs only 10 draws and a 60m rope. There are double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch.

Photos

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A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
The northern SPlatte guidebook describes it as enjoyable face climbing. It's more of a dirty, licheny crack that needs trickery with jams and laybacks. I don't understand the high star rating. Oct 16, 2016
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Kind of surpised that folks call the rock good. We thought it was kind of mungy. My partner pulled off a good-sized hold as he was getting ready to clip and went for a pretty good ride. I also pulled several holds off. Neither of us are really gorilla tuggers and generally don't break holds.

The crack is kind of weird and was pretty wet when we did it. Lots of damp lichen under the feet. Felt really hard for the grade.

The anchor area is a total mess at this time. It looks like somebody was replacing the anchor and pulled the original bolts about 95% of the way out and left them. One is sticking straight out, about 3 inches. The other one is hammered over. Really odd. We would have pulled them but didn't have any tools with us. Jul 30, 2011
Kevin Frederick
Lusaka, ZM
Kevin Frederick   Lusaka, ZM
This line has good rock and fun moves. It has quite a bit of lichen. I didn't think it detracted that much, but my second found it extremely unpleasant. You can go to the second anchor in one push with a 60m; you don't even need to have your belayer walk up the ramp to the start of the bolts. Aug 12, 2002