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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown (head crew?)
Page Views: 1,425 total, 8/month
Shared By: montay on May 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

To find this great route, please follow the directions to get to the [Headstone]. At the base of the [Headstone], approximately center of the face (right of [Topaz] approx 100 ft), there are 2 bolted slab routes just to the right of a right facing flake. The left route of these is the 5.9 slab route that approaches the awesome looking 12d stemming route on the upper headwall. The righthand bolted route is [Scratchy Face].

Move up easy rock with good holds, sometimes through slightly wet or dirty material. The climbing steadily gets more difficult. After approximately 4 or 5 bolts, the moves will get more tenuous as you gun for a ledge/stance. When you gain the stance, spend some time looking at the gorgeous laser cut slab in front of you, and try to piece together a series of pinches and toe work on little crystals and edges to get you to the next ledge. This bit, while only being 10b, will have you focusing pretty intensely! When you have reached the good ledge, above you will be a flake-roof. Getting established at the roof is a bit more difficult than it looks. My partner went left on small face holds to get there. I went slightly right and pinched the roof-flake and pulled into an undercling. In either case, be aware of the lichen on the face or you will be hanging on the end of the rope faster than you can blink. Pull the roof via the usual slab overlap techniques and head to the anchors on the big ledge.

Descent: Several options. With two ropes, rappel to ground from anchors. With a 60 meter rope, you can rap to about 15 feet above the ground and downclimb. Other option, walk climber's right on the ledge to a large block with a wide crack. Climb up the block to some anchors on the main wall. Rap from these anchors down 50 feet to another set of anchors. Rap from second set of anchors to ground.

Protection

Approximately 13 bolts and anchors.

Photos

Aaron Furman
  5.11a/b PG13
Aaron Furman  
  5.11a/b PG13
5.10d seems a little bit weak for this climb unless something broke off.

Bolt 5 to 6 has amazing movements that only get you prepped for a very stout climb. This climb is not for a one dimensional climber, you will be utilizing an entire arsenal of movements for this one.

The rollover on the roof was much easier when matching feet on the flake and then mantling off the crimp.

After two or three runs up this climb, I determined it to be a favorite and worth taking on time and time again - shocked to see only two stars from everyone, I thought this was a great climb. May 31, 2015
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Going straight up off the top of the flake into the roof felt pretty hard. The bolt is placed really low here, so it doesn't offer the best protection from landing on the flake. You will probably want your belayer paying attention here. The rockover up above is kind of tricky, too. Aug 7, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
So, having climbed this quite a few times, it finally felt 10b the last time I was on it. The trick is to cut right 6-7 ft at the slab crux, and this becomes more 10b-ish, otherwise I completely agree with 10d. Aug 15, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
Agree, a sandbag at 5.10b. I actually find the blank face preceding the overhang to be the crux. Head right to easier climbing.... Straight up thru here probably goes at 11+. The overhang turns at 10b. This climb is well bolted, so if you are comfortable on 5.10 and wanting to push it a bit, hop on. Jul 20, 2009
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Based on the 10a rating in Tod's guidebook, we thought this was the biggest sandbag in the history of climbing. Good to see that the consensus on MP.com calls this route a bit harder. Thought the slabbly headwall on this pitch was more difficult than the 11s on Crimpfest. I would call pulling the roof solid at the grade for 10a Jun 7, 2009
Ben Mottinger

  5.10d
Ben Mottinger    
  5.10d
Felt a bit tougher than Topaz, but maybe I'm just out of slab climbing shape. Nov 9, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Watch out for the rope eating flake left of this route - esp if the winds are blowing from the south. Sep 23, 2007
The anchor on top of this route was fixed on 8/30/06. Previously it had standard flat hangers with one quick link per hanger. This setup will DESTROY your rope. There is now one cold shut and one regular hanger with 2 quick links. Sep 1, 2006
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
10b ... yeah, sure! I've changed it to 10d. Aug 21, 2006
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
I have to point out that crux slab section, reached before the roof, seems somewhat tricky for 10b. You will have to think through this for a while and there are no feet to speak of. The hands are micro crimpers and an angular crystal about 5mm wide that you must pinch twixt thumb and forefinger. The section is very slabby though.

To reach the jug under the roof, I too found a small undercling in the lowest portion of the roof flake and walked the feet up for a couple of layback moves to reach the jug. Then pulling the roof isn't terribly tricky. The jug can also be reached by slab climbing, which may be necessary for shorter people, but the slab looked pretty thin to me.

You can rappel or lower with a 60m rope, but it doesn't reach the ground so be sure to tie knots. Downclimbing the last 10' is easy. Jul 17, 2006
Kevin Frederick
Lusaka, ZM
Kevin Frederick   Lusaka, ZM
The ledge that you stand on underneath the roof mentioned above is really a giant flake. The left 3-4 feet has broken off and is just teetering (literally) on the remaining flake below. It might be worth cleaning this extremely loose block although it is left of where anyone would really want to go on this climb, but I stepped on it nevertheless. Aug 12, 2002