Type: Sport
FA: unknown (head crew?)
Page Views: 2,339 total · 9/month
Shared By: montay on May 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

To find this great route, please follow the directions to get to the [Headstone]. At the base of the [Headstone], approximately center of the face (right of [Topaz] approx 100 ft), there are 2 bolted slab routes just to the right of a right facing flake. The left route of these is the 5.9 slab route that approaches the awesome looking 12d stemming route on the upper headwall. The righthand bolted route is [Scratchy Face].

Move up easy rock with good holds, sometimes through slightly wet or dirty material. The climbing steadily gets more difficult. After approximately 4 or 5 bolts, the moves will get more tenuous as you gun for a ledge/stance. When you gain the stance, spend some time looking at the gorgeous laser cut slab in front of you, and try to piece together a series of pinches and toe work on little crystals and edges to get you to the next ledge. This bit, while only being 10b, will have you focusing pretty intensely! When you have reached the good ledge, above you will be a flake-roof. Getting established at the roof is a bit more difficult than it looks. My partner went left on small face holds to get there. I went slightly right and pinched the roof-flake and pulled into an undercling. In either case, be aware of the lichen on the face or you will be hanging on the end of the rope faster than you can blink. Pull the roof via the usual slab overlap techniques and head to the anchors on the big ledge.

Descent: Several options. With two ropes, rappel to ground from anchors. With a 60 meter rope, you can rap to about 15 feet above the ground and downclimb. Other option, walk climber's right on the ledge to a large block with a wide crack. Climb up the block to some anchors on the main wall. Rap from these anchors down 50 feet to another set of anchors. Rap from second set of anchors to ground.

Protection Suggest change

Approximately 13 bolts and anchors.