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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright and Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 947 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Epitaph starts on the ledge 100ft up The Headstone. Approach via "Remote Control" on the right or from the left via "Lions, Chipmunks, and Bears". If you use the later route, it is more friendly to carry a few TCUs for the move at the end, by a tree. A double bolt belay has been placed at the base of the Epitaph near the start on the right. Double ropes rap to the ground from here, or you can pick up a mid point rap half way down. Only vertical, the Epitaph starts off hard (5.12c) on very thin friction pads straight up and then angling left to a good system of left-facing edges. Hard flakes and edges lead up and right to a second crux (5.12d) at 50ft. Move right and then zig back left on very long reaches and a pseudo-pocket. Another 5.12a move leads to easier climbing and on to the anchors. This route is very tricky and has relentless thin climbing with a couple of horrible smearing foot placements. Three stars for climbing moves, the continuity, and the position.

Protection

QD only. This starts off the ledge so the approach may be trad or sport (recommended).

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Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Has this route been free'd? In the guide book it is listed as a 13 project. Aug 22, 2009
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12d
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12d
Absolutely. I wouldn't know if anyone had beaten Alan Nelson to it or not, but he and I worked on it several years after it was put up. He sussed it out a couple of times and then muscled straight through on an RP burn. The line was pretty much solved when it was put up, with everything going free. A clean red point was not done at the time, and our intent was to get back on it for that reason. However, the BS coming down on the Head was so distasteful that I didn't get back to it. At some point climbing should be fun, challenging but still a satisfying and enjoyable pursuit. Unfortunately, some personalities just won't let that happen. Aug 26, 2009

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