The Epitaph [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|FA:||Richard Wright and Tod Anderson, 1997|
|Page Views:||929 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Description [Suggest Change]
The Epitaph starts on the ledge 100ft up The Headstone. Approach via "Remote Control" on the right or from the left via "Lions, Chipmunks, and Bears". If you use the later route, it is more friendly to carry a few TCUs for the move at the end, by a tree. A double bolt belay has been placed at the base of the Epitaph near the start on the right. Double ropes rap to the ground from here, or you can pick up a mid point rap half way down. Only vertical, the Epitaph starts off hard (5.12c) on very thin friction pads straight up and then angling left to a good system of left-facing edges. Hard flakes and edges lead up and right to a second crux (5.12d) at 50ft. Move right and then zig back left on very long reaches and a pseudo-pocket. Another 5.12a move leads to easier climbing and on to the anchors. This route is very tricky and has relentless thin climbing with a couple of horrible smearing foot placements. Three stars for climbing moves, the continuity, and the position.
Protection [Suggest Change]
QD only. This starts off the ledge so the approach may be trad or sport (recommended).
- No Photos -