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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 1,041 total · 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The name says it all. Climbing on Razor Burn starts off the ledge 100ft above ground in the middle of the West facing yellow plate, any of several approach pitches can be used to gain the ledge. Done properly, a dicey 5.10 slab pitch might reasonably be called P1 of RB with the head wall pitch being P2. Just right of The Rampart Rage is a bolt line that follows a system of razor sharp flakes for close to 65 feet. I only chased this route on a top rope the day it was red pointed (AN), so the grading may be a little soft. I thought that there were at least four distinct 5.12/5.12+ cruxes that involved using the razors with enough delicacy that you didn't slice off your finger tips. Your feet are largely on very thin smears, and the reaches between razors are usually very long. The 20 feet of finishing moves over small overlaps bring the difficulty back to 5.10+, but the ride to this point is Devilish. I would raise a question about the long-term stability of the razor flakes. Most will hold up, but on some of these it is important to resist the temptation to pull out on the flakes. If your finger tips are up for it, this is an excellent line with kinesthetically pleasing movement.

Protection [Suggest Change]

QDs only. This 80 foot line needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
There is nothing like doing things wrong to make a route feel leagues more difficult. Jul 26, 2001
I've done this a few times, and IMHO it is sustained 12c, with one 12c/d move getting over a bulge mid-way up. Jul 27, 2001
slim

  5.12c
slim    
  5.12c
Very sustained sections where you have to do a lot of tweaky, precise moves in a row. Great rock. Jul 30, 2011

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