Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
Routes in The Headstone
|Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 150 ft|
|Page Views:||520 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Sarah Meiser on Sep 3, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a long and enjoyable single pitch mixed sport/trad line that I highly recommend if you're in the area and have trad gear along. It pairs very nicely with nearby Chickenhead which is also a quality 5.8 trad route.
The first half of the climb follows a friendly bolt line up an otherwise unprotectable slab on the lower part of the wall. A short, cruxy section of 5.8 slab is encountered down low, and then it's a rather easy romp to a bolted anchor. Don't stop here. You'll use this anchor to get down.
At this point, the character of the climb begins to change and it's time to put on your trad hat. Throw some gear in a vertical crack and work your way up to a huge roof. Traverse left under the roof with excellent protection. Near the left end of the roof, clip a bolt and pull over the roof (which is fairly small at this point). Follow a straightforward dihedral to the top anchor.
LocationThis route is on the right side of the Headstone and starts about 15 feet right of Remote Control. Look for several rather closely spaced bolts on a slab directly under a big, left-facing dihedral.
To descend, rappel the route. There is a bolted rappel station at the top and another one halfway down. The descent will require TWO rappels unless you have two ropes.