Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Richard Rossiter, Chip Bennett, Jessica True, 2002
Page Views: 3,475 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is one of the dirtier routes on the First Tier, but it has hard climbing to start (but not much fun for me) and easier but fun climbing at the top. In the middle it was dodging moss and bushes.

Sex Slave is the leftmost route on the upper level of the First Tier. It starts at a big tree 15 feet left of a large flat block embedded in the ground.

Getting past the initial irregular and flared finger crack is the crux. Place one or two finger-sized cams, clip the bolt, and get established on the face above. This felt hard to me. The jams for the most part aren't (jams), there are many mediocre holds to choose from, and it's strenuous. Hard to onsight if you climb at this level.

Climb easier dirty rock above past three more bolts until below the left edge of the roof. Optionally place a piece in the roof and make some fun 8ish moves left and into the left-facing corner above. The bigger (up to 2") cams go here. A couple more moves lead to the anchor.

The bolts on this route aren't strictly necessary, but neither are they a bolting of continuous cracks. There is good gear near the first bolt, but it would be strenuous to place, and if it failed you might be on the ground. Above that there is gear and/or it's easy, but the rock is a little funky.

Protection Suggest change

Single set of cams from finger sized (yellow Alien) to 2" (#2 Friend). 4 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor with rings.