Mountain Project Logo

Routes in First Tier

Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catch and Release S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Slave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spare Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tunnel of Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True, 2001
Page Views: 7,106 total · 41/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


254 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Mists of Avalon is on the First Tier of Avalon. Cross the creek, hike the big talus to the lowest point of rock and walk left about 20' along the base on a dirt path to the first large tree. Above is a roof. The arete above the right side of the roof is bolted and is Catch and Release. Mists of Avalon climbs easy blocky rock right of a right facing-corner to the roof.

Climb easy rock past two bolts to a dirty ledge below an A-shaped notch in the roof. [Eds. there are some fractured holds here, beware.] Clip a bolt at the lip then stem through the roof with good hands. Make a really long clip and then swing right onto the face and semi-mantle a small ledge, or swing right first before clipping. The roof and getting established on the face is the crux. Pleasant and progressively easier climbing, with good clipping stances, leads to the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring two long slings if you are going to thread the anchor, since the bolts are too high to clip with draws.

Photos

Travis Provin
Boulder CO
 
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
 
I felt like this route was poorly bolted above the roof, a fall will place you into the roof or onto the big ledge below, so don't fall at or just above bolt 4, IMO.

The first bolt was loose, I hand tightened it. The 4th bolt is loose and is spinning. Sep 29, 2016
Matthew Windchime
denver
 
Matthew Windchime   denver
 
I liked it, looks like most people move to the left after the roof. I thought the thin holds and feet on the slab after might be harder than 10a. Fun route, decent shady area for extra hot days. Jun 23, 2016
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10a
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10a
Really enjoyable route. Maybe I'm getting stronger, but stemming through the roof made it seem not too hard. The move right before the 4th bolt felt like the crux to me: committing and balancy. Superb slab climbing above. 2 or 3 stars. May 15, 2015
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
The roof is tough, the crux in terms of strength moves. The thin stuff on the slab above scared me more than the crux though! Guess I need to practice 5.10 slabs, since with that combined with the crux, I would have given it harder than 10a. Jun 20, 2012
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Fun route. Thin moves over the roof felt like the crux to me.

Prod. Mar 31, 2012
Shawn Murphy  
 
My first roof ever...great climb.
Hanger on 8th bolt spins...last bolt on the face. May 16, 2010
djoseph
 
djoseph  
 
Great climb! One of the best 10s at Avalon. Moves over the roof felt a bit tougher than 10a... but perhaps they're 10a if you have good roof technique. Fun thin slab climbing above. Really a great line. May 31, 2008
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Going straight up at the roof is burly but very rewarding. Move up quickly after clipping the fourth bolt and you will find a very nice rest. Jun 15, 2007
Ryan Malaty
Broomfield, CO
  5.10a
Ryan Malaty   Broomfield, CO
  5.10a
Fun fun.

I wish it was on the north side!! So cold!!

But it was fun, the crux is the roof and to the fourth bolt.

Then after that, it's cake. May 2, 2007
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
This is a nice climb. Tricky for someone short without the ape-factor (I'm 5'4") to clip that 3rd bolt from the ledge before committing to the roof - I baaaarely reached it on tip-toes (a fall here would be ugly). For anyone taller, this isn't an issue. The roof to slab transition is awesome, as well as the slab finish. Oct 14, 2006
Ian Welch
Denver, CO
 
Ian Welch   Denver, CO
 
This was my first roof, pretty fun and great for a beginner due to the staging area you have just below the overhang. Sep 20, 2006
Ryan Bibler
MT
  5.10a
Ryan Bibler   MT
  5.10a
I think this is one of the better routes at this crag. The start is a little junky, so it looks like it doesn't get climbed much, but pulling the roof and gaining the steep slab above was interesting and fun. Jun 5, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Great route with some history from my point of view- something that speaks of vision and forward thinking. When I first stumbled across this route, not long after the FA, I had no clue what it was. I pretty much bagged on it on CB.com in my description submitted for the Lower Tier of Avalon. Remember, at the time there was little known or published about the area or the route. I complained that it was a worthless and dirty piece of junk. Moss and lichen all over, crumbling holds on the face, sharp, etc...

The ugly duckling did not become a beautiful swan or anything here, but it is at least a stately goose. The route has cleaned up nicely and is now a testament to the forward thinking and vision of Richard for equipping it. Crow tastes like chicken once I get past the feathers, I guess. Nice addition to the wall. Long and pleasant- one of the better routes here. Jul 30, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Grungy down low, but excellent climbing from the roof to the top. The crux is getting established on the steep slab above the roof, and it can be done in two different ways, as Ivan mentions. I climbed straight up to the fourth bolt, and my partner stemmed up left and then stepped right at the fourth bolt. From here, climb the steep slab on thin 5.9 edges to the top. Aug 20, 2004

More About Mists of Avalon

Printer-Friendly Guide