Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 3,845 total · 20/month
Shared By: TBD on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


203 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Marquis de Sade is the fifth route from the left on the First Tier, right of Body Count. It is on the right side of the obvious near vertical face. Follow the bolts up the face, and climb a short finger crack (crux) to the obvious roof above. Climb up to the right of the roof and then pull up and left to surmount the roof. Try not to chimney off the block to the right.

The crux comes before the roof at a tricky finger lock with difficult feet. May be more difficult for those with a short reach or poor crack technique.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
A pumpy route with several hard sections. The crux finger crack seems harder than 10c; I'd call it 10d. The moves over the roof are exciting and the 7th bolt (above the roof) is a tough clip. Oct 25, 2003
I liked stemming off the block behind to go over the roof. At least, it was more fun than pretending it wasn't there. Jun 20, 2005
Wanderinfree Chrislip
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
Wanderinfree Chrislip   Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
I have to agree. The crux crack move was really thin for 10c. May 30, 2006
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
I wasn't going to stem the block at first, but it was more fun than worrying about "style". JUST HAVE FUN May 13, 2007
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Finger crack is not too bad (not easy either). I stuck my left foot in the crack and found purchase for my right on a little something on the face. The roof moves are a riot w/ many big holds to choose from. Best to move quickly in order to have some gas to clip the bolt above the roof. Jun 2, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Interesting the way that the crack in the roof was sealed up to prevent the rope from getting stuck. Normally I'm not in favor of altering the rock, but it seems to be quite useful here.

CL Sep 2, 2007
CA3
Fort Collins, CO
CA3   Fort Collins, CO
10d, crux was a tough move requiring good technique (especially for a short person like me). Jul 25, 2011
Angel Climb Yogi
Cayman Brac
Angel Climb Yogi   Cayman Brac
I climbed it today, didn't have a guidebook with me, just a few notes from mountain project. I wanted to do some easy routes, so I though this was a 5.9, and I climbed the whole thing thinking: "this is a hard 5.9". The finger crack have to be quick to get to the bolt and clip, I didn't get pumped. It's a nice technical route, mainly legs, but below the roof, it took me some time to figure out. I did chimney using the rock on the right, it was easy when I found the way. After I finished, I was asking a climber with a book which route was that and he said: "Marquis of Sade, 10c", that's when I found out it wasn't a hard 5.9. Sep 18, 2015
S. Neoh
5.10d
S. Neoh  
5.10d
Good climb. For me, only the awkward roof took half a star away from being a great route. Harder than Lust on Tarot Wall, IMHO. Sep 3, 2017