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Routes in First Tier
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[Redacted] T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Catch and Release S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Safeword T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spare Rib T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tunnel of Love T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Dan Hare, Bruce Spozi, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,160 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route is about 6' left of Mists of Avalon.
Start the climb in one of two ways:
1. Scramble up 25' of junky rock a few feet left of a pedestal to gain cleaner rock starting at the big ledge.
2. Start on Mists of Avalon, clipping 2 bolts if desired. This is only 5.7, so it may be best not to create rope drag and just solo to that point and flick the rope over once on the ledge.
From the ledge, the fun begins. The rock is solid from there as well, including the two chockstones in the crux. Walk left over the ledge system to a split handcrack created where a few nice chockstones are trapped in a wide crack. The jams through the roof here were quite good.
Place a a large TCU or small Friend overhead, just below the roof. Get a jam in the crack at the back and crank up over the roof into a jam to the right of the chockstone, which is literally good enough to cut loose and dangle from, by one hand. Move up on this to a jug on the top of the first chockstone, pass another chockstone, and then climb up the widening crack (hands to fist) to the top of the main buttress, just below a second roof. Move up and right to reach the 2-bolt anchor on Mists of Avalon to lower off if you do not want to do the second pitch. You can also belay here for a second pitch, or just continue onward.
To continue onward choose the original finish (left) though a squeeze chimney facing left, placing a very large cam and working up and into the crack, then out on footholds and back right to another anchor up top... or just right of that through the 5.10 4" crack and face moves on The Anti-Sport, leading to those same anchors. Although this pitch is only perhaps 30 feet, it packs its own punch, and follows a line discontinuous enough from that of the first pitch to merit some very long slings or being separated....
This route might have gotten two stars if it was clean at the bottom, but it wasn't, so it gets one. Like Mists of Avalon, it is no destination, but maybe worthy if you are going to spend a day climbing other routes on Avalon.
Start the climb in one of two ways:
1. Scramble up 25' of junky rock a few feet left of a pedestal to gain cleaner rock starting at the big ledge.
2. Start on Mists of Avalon, clipping 2 bolts if desired. This is only 5.7, so it may be best not to create rope drag and just solo to that point and flick the rope over once on the ledge.
From the ledge, the fun begins. The rock is solid from there as well, including the two chockstones in the crux. Walk left over the ledge system to a split handcrack created where a few nice chockstones are trapped in a wide crack. The jams through the roof here were quite good.
Place a a large TCU or small Friend overhead, just below the roof. Get a jam in the crack at the back and crank up over the roof into a jam to the right of the chockstone, which is literally good enough to cut loose and dangle from, by one hand. Move up on this to a jug on the top of the first chockstone, pass another chockstone, and then climb up the widening crack (hands to fist) to the top of the main buttress, just below a second roof. Move up and right to reach the 2-bolt anchor on Mists of Avalon to lower off if you do not want to do the second pitch. You can also belay here for a second pitch, or just continue onward.
To continue onward choose the original finish (left) though a squeeze chimney facing left, placing a very large cam and working up and into the crack, then out on footholds and back right to another anchor up top... or just right of that through the 5.10 4" crack and face moves on The Anti-Sport, leading to those same anchors. Although this pitch is only perhaps 30 feet, it packs its own punch, and follows a line discontinuous enough from that of the first pitch to merit some very long slings or being separated....
This route might have gotten two stars if it was clean at the bottom, but it wasn't, so it gets one. Like Mists of Avalon, it is no destination, but maybe worthy if you are going to spend a day climbing other routes on Avalon.
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