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Routes in First Tier

Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catch and Release S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Slave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spare Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tunnel of Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Lauri Werling, 2001
Page Views: 259 total, 1/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Jul 24, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Tunnel of Love is the rightmost route on the upper level of the First Tier. Start at a right-angling crack leading to a chockstone tunnel through a roof. Climb up through a podded handcrack that turns to a groove (crux). Move left and up through the chockstone tunnel, then continue with the crack on the left wall after the tunnel.

There is a 2-bolt anchor about 100' up, but lowering through the tunnel may be strange, so it's probably easier to bring up your partner, then walkoff to the left, past Tarot Wall, and back down to the start.

Protection

Set of nuts, plus cams to 3".

Photos

Squirming Coil
Morrison, CO
Squirming Coil   Morrison, CO
I believe if the crux is done correctly then it's a 5.9. But if your sequence is off, it becomes a lot harder. When I led it today, I was off and took two nice whips then pulled it. Later I TR'd it and walked up it. Fun climb!

I also skipped the tunnel due to the blocking blocks and finished on Marquis De Sade. That made for a real nice pull of the roof. Jul 17, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
5.9 seemed about on for what I did, and the crux was a high step, leaving the crack... however. Rather than go up through the tunnel which is presently jammed with a large rock and appears to be impassible, we traversed left under it and finished on Marquis De Sade. This was interesting and added a second crux, maybe 5.9+. Jul 27, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
An interesting climb with a variety of moves.

I found the crux, exiting the hand crack onto the face above, to be considerably harder than 5.9.

Gear: Aliens and Camalots to #3 or #4.

Belay from the top and walk off left, past Tarot Wall, and back down the path to the start. Oct 24, 2003