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Routes in First Tier

Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catch and Release S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Slave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spare Rib T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tunnel of Love T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,589 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the rightmost route on the First Tier of Avalon. Start about 20' right of Mists of Avalon. Climb up lower-angle rock past two bolts. Clip a bolt over the roof and then make a very hard sequence of moves past the roof. Clip a bolt and make a couple of cool, hard moves up the arete. Gain a stance and easier climbing leads to the anchor. Excellent climbing on good stone.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

reboot
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reboot   .
Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately.
Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn.
Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise. Jul 24, 2006
Shumin, I tried this thing today and had the same question about the roof. My initial instinct was to go above it on the right, then traverse back left but looking at the bolting job, decided that wasn't the intention and so I reversed it back to below the roof. From here, I punched it straight over the roof, with the first roof bolt a bit to my right. Felt really hard this way with awkward holds and powerful reaches/lockoffs. Not sure this was the intended path though.... Aug 7, 2010
SeanKuus Kuusinen
Steamboat Springs
 
SeanKuus Kuusinen   Steamboat Springs
 
Straight through the roof is heinous and harder than most Bocan 13as. Maybe a hold broke? Jun 10, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I've climbed and established a fair amount of routes with Bob. He is prolific and puts up fun routes, although he is not big on doing a lot of cleaning. I've done several of his routes and found easier sequences which were only revealed after either brushing the pitches up or feeling around in the lichen for easier sequences.

I'm not a fan of rating routes on contrived sequences when easier ones are within reach, not that I think that's Bob's intention. Aug 7, 2016

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