Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,645 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is the rightmost route on the First Tier of Avalon. Start about 20' right of Mists of Avalon. Climb up lower-angle rock past two bolts. Clip a bolt over the roof and then make a very hard sequence of moves past the roof. Clip a bolt and make a couple of cool, hard moves up the arete. Gain a stance and easier climbing leads to the anchor. Excellent climbing on good stone.


9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


reboot   .
Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately.
Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn.
Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise. Jul 24, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Shumin, I tried this thing today and had the same question about the roof. My initial instinct was to go above it on the right, then traverse back left but looking at the bolting job, decided that wasn't the intention and so I reversed it back to below the roof. From here, I punched it straight over the roof, with the first roof bolt a bit to my right. Felt really hard this way with awkward holds and powerful reaches/lockoffs. Not sure this was the intended path though.... Aug 7, 2010
SeanKuus Kuusinen
Steamboat Springs
SeanKuus Kuusinen   Steamboat Springs
Straight through the roof is heinous and harder than most Bocan 13as. Maybe a hold broke? Jun 10, 2013