Mountain Project Logo

Routes in First Tier

Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catch and Release S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Slave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spare Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tunnel of Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Cory Fleagle
Page Views: 1,891 total, 21/month
Shared By: Cor on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start up Tunnel of Love and go straight out the roof above. A good jam in the chockstone leads you out the hand crack, up to the jug on the right. Finish up the crack to pull the roof, and head up rejoining Tunnel of Love to the top anchors. You can also step left to Marquis de Sade Anchors....

The roof is lots of fun, and I think it is pretty clean now. I went back after the FA and cleaned a bunch of junk out. Go enjoy!

Location

Towards the right end of the 1st tier. Start and finish with Tunnel of Love. Pull straight out the main roof crack with a chockstone in it.

Protection

Up to a #4 Camalot if you want to carry it, but up to a #3 would be just fine.... I put a stopper at the lip. Clip it if you want, but it is there to prevent the rope from getting wedged into the v-slot....

Photos

Good route with a tough crux. Maybe easier if you have a long wingspan?

You don't need a #4. I brought one and it ended up in a slot just below a bomber #3 placement. The nut is still in the roof slot. I hung on it a bit only because I wanted to make sure it stays in place.... Aug 6, 2017
419
Sacramento
 
419   Sacramento
 
Great route, Cor.

It has cleaned up well and protects well without a BD 3-4. Jul 2, 2013
J1.
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10+
J1.   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10+
Finally got on this route again after belaying Cor on it on the FA early this summer. Still climbs great, it's cleaned up quite well, looks like it's been seeing some traffic, which is awesome.... Good job again, dude!! Sep 19, 2010
Cor
 
Cor  
 
Glad to hear that everyone is enjoying this route!
I don't really need the stopper back, it was old....
It is nice to have something there, 'tis a rope eater! Aug 30, 2010
Rich Farnham
  5.10+
Rich Farnham  
  5.10+
Really fun moves through the roof and over the lip -- more solid than I expected. I had the advantage of my partner having placed all the gear at the crux already as we sorted this thing out, so I got to cruise right through. Some of the stances seemed a little pumpy to place pro from. I'll definitely be back to clean this up.

I highly recommend the stopper at the lip (#12 BD). It didn't really get in the way of my hand jam over the lip, and the crack is a real rope-eater and quite sharp. Aug 29, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Equally guilty.... I lead the pitch and hadn't read the description of why the stopper was there. I'd commented that I'd have preferred a fingerlock to the handjam I got and that may have influenced Jason's cleaning of the gear - no harm intended.
It was a pretty good line, but could still use a nice brushing up above the roof to make the feet a little more solid. Right now with the amount of dirt and moss the mental crux is trusting the friction... which means less enjoyment of the climbing in and of itself. But it should clean up very nicely. Aug 22, 2010
Jason Haas
  5.10c/d
Jason Haas  
  5.10c/d
I was actually pleasantly surprised by how much better this route climbed than it appeared from the ground. Still a bit dirty, but quite a fun roof actually. I removed the fixed stopper above the roof quite easily if whoever left it wants it back.

EDIT: Sorry, just read your description for the first time and saw the comment in the gear section about you leaving the nut because of the rope. Sorry for removing it, though I don't think a fixed piece there is necessary. Maybe just a comment in the description saying it's a good idea to put a nut here to avoid problems with the rope? You'd probably want a piece there anyway but I found that large of a nut kind of hindered my ability to get a good jam. Nonetheless, if you want it back so you can replace it, I'd be happy to return it. Aug 18, 2010
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10+
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10+
Big fun, Cor. Thanks for the nice addition, psyched to get on SCD, ran out of time though.... Jul 26, 2010
Cor
 
Cor  
 
Trad climbers are about to siege the Avalon and take it over. Armageddon! There may be a mass exodus of bolt clippers
to the pork spark! Jun 12, 2010
slim    
This route needs to be unchopped. The long standing ethics at Avalon has followed the strict style of bolting every crack. As such, I have no choice but to add bolts at 3 foot spacings for the entire length of the crack. I'm sorry, but you have left the community no choice.... Jun 10, 2010