First Tier Rock Climbing
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Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open . Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing & all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC and the AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of givi....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close Feb. 1 - July 31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting Feb. 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The First Tier is split into a lower (R) and upper (L) level.
Routes on the lower level, from R->L (as you approach from the trail):
J. Catch and Release, 12, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Arete on the R.
I. Mists of Avalon, 10-, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Face to roof and slab.
H. Spare Rib, 10, 1p, gear. Face to roof & crack.
G. Sword In The Stone, 9, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Face to an arete.
Walk up a path to the left about 100' to get to the upper level of the First Tier.
Routes on the upper level, from L->R:
A. Sex Slave, 10, 1p, 55', gear & 4 bolts. Thin crack & face.
B. Iron Maiden, 9+, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. R-facing corner & roofs.
C. Slayer, 10, 1p, 70', 7 bolts. Blocky bulge to roof.
D. Body Count, 11-, 1p, 60', 6 bolts. Steep face to roof.
E. Marquis de Sade, 10, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Steep face to thin crack & roof.
F1. Tunnel of Love, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. R-angling hand crack to chockstone tunnel.
F2. The Anti-Sport, 10+, 1p, 100', gear.
G. The Sport Climber's Demise, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
Continuing up the path left of Sex Slave will take you up to the Second Tier, at the left side of Tarot Wall.
See the Beta Photo for details.
Classic Climbing Routes at First Tier
Days w Precip