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Routes in First Tier

Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catch and Release S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Slave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spare Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tunnel of Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Cory Fleagle / Sarah Hayden, 6/16/10
Page Views: 2,054 total, 23/month
Shared By: Cor on Jun 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Nice climbing with a little crux midway where it's wide and another pulling the lip of the upper (right) roof crack. Face holds on the right wall over the lip. Very fun climbing. Reminds me of Vedauwoo.

This route is The Anti-Sport brother. Both have well-protected trad roofs!

Location

From Tunnel of Love area, scramble over right onto a giant rock and walk up to the bush at the start of the crack. Up the crack, and out the right of two roof cracks.

Protection

Gear up to #4 BD Camalot. A #4 midway and a #4 in/over the roof are nice. A 2 bolt anchor is on top. You can also use these anchors for the top pitch of Dan Hare's 1977 route, Spare Rib, which is the left roof crack (wide).

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Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10+
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10+
Great route, Cor, good job! Oct 6, 2010
Cor
 
Cor  
 
Thanks for the grade info from all. I changed it to 10+, because I love a sandbagged rating anyway. Haven't been back on it for a while, and I am sure there is easier ways out the roof than what I did....
Anyway, glad everyone is having fun on this thing!
P.S. good comment, Tony. Yeah, don't be scared of this thing.... It is fun, and protects well.

Rich, maybe you were looking at the wrong anchor? It is at the very top of the cliff, inline with the route. (No directionals needed.)

Cheers!
Cor Aug 30, 2010
Rich Farnham
  5.10+
Rich Farnham  
  5.10+
I really enjoyed this climb as well and think Tony said it well -- it's just a little too solid for 5.11. That being said, I think it is a little tricky as an onsight. The easiest way through the roof is not the most obvious. If you just charge straight through the roof, maybe it is 5.11.

I was glad to have (2) #3 Camalots, and at least (1) #4. I think singles on everything else worked fine.

Unfortunately, the anchor is way off to the right, so getting a TR on this would be a bit of a pain. Aug 29, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
A pretty good climb with fun and interesting moves on great rock. Frankly, I was surprised at how good it was. The crux is a great problem with good position in and of itself, but is a little too solid for the 5.11 grade. I'd put it below yardstick 5.11 roof/overhang moves such as Vertigo, or for that matter (given the width) perhaps I should compare it to The Diving Board, which is also harder.
Perhaps I found a different sequence, as this route seemed about the same if not slightly easier for me than The Anti-Sport, though I was informed I missed a crux jug on that one. Solid 5.10 or 10+ for this route. The difficulty of the climbing should not be a consuming argument, but I wanted to be sure that people are not unreasonably scared to try it. Aug 22, 2010
Jason Haas
  5.10c/d
Jason Haas  
  5.10c/d
I wouldn't say this is anything like Vedauwoo personally, but I did find it quite fun, and a heck of a lot better than it looked from the ground, that's for sure. Nice addition, especially to an already very popular crag and a sport one at that. I would also say the roof is no harder than the other new route, The Anti-Sport. Aug 18, 2010
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10+
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10+
Keep it up HardCor, love your work! Keep rocking the boat, let's get out and do some of this kind of dastardly stuff together soon! Jun 23, 2010
slim    
Be advised, you sir, are treading on thin water. That's more dastardly than treading on thin ice, but I guess Jesus did it, so maybe it is ok, anyway I digress.... Your style of using widgetcraft shall be punished by burning your steak. Repent now, and go to McGuckin's and buy some bolts to adequately protect that deep fissure that you have forced upon the unwitting climbing community. Jun 22, 2010