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Routes in First Tier

Anti-Sport, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Body Count S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catch and Release S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Iron Maiden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marquis de Sade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mists of Avalon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex Slave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spare Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Climber's Demise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tunnel of Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 9/20/06
Page Views: 6,505 total, 48/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


255 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Sword In The Stone is a cool new sport route on the First Tier of Avalon. It climbs the face and knife-edge arete left of Mists of Avalon.

Start 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below some broken slabs with loose rock. Scramble up the slabs to a ledge below a small overhang. Climb up and left past three bolts (cracked horizontal hold in here) and several small overhangs to a stance at the base of the arete. Work up the knife-edge arete (crux) past three more bolts to a bulge. Clip a final bolt and cruise to the anchor.

Location

On the First Tier of Avalon, 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below a knife-edge arete.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. All bolts were drilled by hand by "Bosch-less Bruce".
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
Pretty nice climb! Great holds all over. Get on it! Jul 6, 2016
Matthew Windchime
denver
 
Matthew Windchime   denver
 
Fun route, but the first bolt is kind of in a bad spot. It's super easy, so you will probably never fall, but the bolt is at the edge of a piece of stone, so the biner on your draw kinda lies flat over the edge. It's super easy terrain up to like the third bolt, but if you did fall between the first and second, you could pretty easily snap your biner in half. Consider threading a sling through it and putting a biner on the end to avoid that. Jun 23, 2016
Dan White
Western CO
 
Dan White   Western CO
 
It's a nice climb, it starts with somewhat wandering moves on blocks to the arete. Watch out for z-clipping on the arete, the bolts are extremely close together. Jul 3, 2012
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
Lower end 9+? I laughed out loud. How many hairs are you gonna split? Apr 11, 2012
MATTY D
 
MATTY D  
 
Definitely fun and, as mentioned earlier, bolts placed exactly where you would want them. Push through the arete and be rewarded with a nice pocket below the last bolt, then you are home free. A grade of 5.9 or a lower end 9+ feels accurate. Great route and amazing area for intermediate climbers. Sep 28, 2011
Alan Butler
Boulder, CO
 
Alan Butler   Boulder, CO
 
Very nicely bolted- just where you want them to be. Aug 8, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9
Didn't think the arete was all that sharp. Fun climb. Jul 30, 2010
L G
Boulder, CO
 
L G   Boulder, CO
 
Lotsa fun with a variety of moves up the face then using the sharp arete. Sensibly protected. Jun 20, 2010
Ryan Malaty
Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
Ryan Malaty   Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
It was definitely fun, awkward, but fun.

It requires some weird moves, but if climbed correctly it can make it easier.

The back side of the arete is really crappy, but it gets the job done. May 2, 2007