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Routes in Ship's Prow

Bologna Pony T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Etch-A-Sketch T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Half Day's Work T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Keel Haul T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Man Overboard T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Portal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sarchasm S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scots on the Rocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ship Of Fools T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Tunnel of Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yard Arms T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 130 ft
FA: M. Slaunch & B. Gillett, 1998
Page Views: 541 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details


Approach the Ships Prow from Chasm Lake and come to the obvious, left-leaning chimney/ramp. 30' left of this is a shallow left-facing dihedral with a thin crack, 40' up this is a flake/roof to the right.

P1. (5.10d, 130') Climb up the previously described dihedral, continuing up past the flake, which if taken offers a 5.9 escape). Past the flake, set small gear and do thin moves - this was done on lead as a smear and layback to the left side and followed as a shallow stem to the right. Both felt like 5.10+. The topo from Gillett suggests that as the dihedral curves right to top-out into the chimney, that you follow it, but this was wet and reeked of decaying vegetation. Instead, we climbed up and left through some bulges to reach a second crack (5.9, S?) and then up to level with the top of the top chockstone of the chimney, then right, then under it, and up to the top of the loose rock in it to a 2 pin- belay on the right.

P2-? Continue on Portal or Ship Of Fools.

Retreat if necessary: a few slings and a rapid-link or two could convert the fixed pin belay into a rap station.


The route requires pro from small stoppers (RP or equiv) to 2.5". much of the pitch is above small stoppers that may have been placed blind and may not be that great. Gillett (FA party) suggests lowe-balls in his book, but I found that brass HB taipers (not offsets) and such worked the best due to the small placement availability