Scots on the Rocks
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Dougald MacDonald, John Christie|
|Page Views:||1,425 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Dougald MacDonald on Sep 14, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionOn the south side of Ship's Prow, extending toward the Loft, is a long ridge of good rock facing Mt. Meeker. This culminates in a prominent buttress -- actually a pair of buttresses -- that face southeast, right next to the Loft ice climbs. We called these the Lofty Towers. This route climbs the right side of the higher buttress.
P1. Start on the lowest toe of rock and climb up to a pinkish, hanging flake. Pass this on the left and continue a rope length on surprisingly good rock to a huge ledge system, 200 feet, 5.7.
P2. Climb the most prominent, left-facing corner system with a clean hand and finger crack, 180 feet, 5.9+. This is superb climbing on perfect rock. Belay on a good ledge above an overhang.
P3. Step left and climb Hallett-like face holds for 20 feet, then move around the prow to the south face. A beautiful finger crack curves up and left through a slab. The crack gradually thins but face holds appear. The crux is at a bulge. Above this, move back right along a thin seam, then hand-traverse right into a corner, go up a few feet and belay, 140 feet, 5.10a. You may want to belay midway somewhere on this pitch to ease rope drag. At this belay, we found a fixed #1.5 Friend with a retreat sling and biner, indicating someone had gotten this far, probably on a line a bit to our right, and then bailed.
P4. Climb poorly protected, steep 5.9 corners directly to the summit, 50 feet. Or, traverse about 20 feet right to easy ground. If you go to the summit, you have to downclimb a 50-foot, 5.6 knife-edge ridge. Cool summit, unique views.
Descend by downclimbing as mentioned, then follow easy ground up to Glacier Ridge, and contour around to the south, above the Lamb's Slide, to reach the Loft.
This climb may have been done before, as indicated by the Friend, but there are many, many variations possible on this buttress. Some of these may be quite hard, and they look excellent.