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Scots on the Rocks
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Ship's Prow
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Barnacle Scars T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bilge Pump T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bologna Pony T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Etch-A-Sketch T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Feel the Stern T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Half Day's Work T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Keel Haul T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Leaning Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man Overboard T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mentals With Altitude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mizzenmast T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plank, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Portal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Raise the Main! T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Remember the Pikas T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sarchasm S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Scots on the Rocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ship Of Fools T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shiver Me Timbers aka (Scissor Me Timbers) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slocum's Spray T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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South Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tunnel of Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waves of Shade T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Yard Arms T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 40.2543, -105.605 |
| FA: | Dougald MacDonald, John Christie |
| Page Views: | 2,998 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Sep 14, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Closures
Details
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
On the south side of Ship's Prow, extending toward the Loft, is a long ridge of good rock facing Mt. Meeker. This culminates in a prominent buttress -- actually a pair of buttresses -- that face southeast, right next to the Loft ice climbs. We called these the Lofty Towers. This route climbs the right side of the higher buttress.
P1. Start on the lowest toe of rock and climb up to a pinkish, hanging flake. Pass this on the left and continue a rope length on surprisingly good rock to a huge ledge system, 200 feet, 5.7.
P2. Climb the most prominent, left-facing corner system with a clean hand and finger crack, 180 feet, 5.9+. This is superb climbing on perfect rock. Belay on a good ledge above an overhang.
P3. Step left and climb Hallett-like face holds for 20 feet, then move around the prow to the south face. A beautiful finger crack curves up and left through a slab. The crack gradually thins but face holds appear. The crux is at a bulge. Above this, move back right along a thin seam, then hand-traverse right into a corner, go up a few feet and belay, 140 feet, 5.10a. You may want to belay midway somewhere on this pitch to ease rope drag. At this belay, we found a fixed #1.5 Friend with a retreat sling and biner, indicating someone had gotten this far, probably on a line a bit to our right, and then bailed.
P4. Climb poorly protected, steep 5.9 corners directly to the summit, 50 feet. Or, traverse about 20 feet right to easy ground. If you go to the summit, you have to downclimb a 50-foot, 5.6 knife-edge ridge. Cool summit, unique views.
Descend by downclimbing as mentioned, then follow easy ground up to Glacier Ridge, and contour around to the south, above the Lamb's Slide, to reach the Loft.
This climb may have been done before, as indicated by the Friend, but there are many, many variations possible on this buttress. Some of these may be quite hard, and they look excellent.
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