| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 280 ft (85 m), Grade III |
| GPS: | 40.2543, -105.605 |
| FA: | Amity Warme and Josh Wharton, 8/10/22 |
| Page Views: | 1,076 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | j wharton on Aug 11, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Keel hauling was a form of 17th century maritime torture in which one was dragged along the hull of a ship as punishment. If it didn't result in death by a thousand cuts and/or drowning, it would certainly result in barnacle scars.
See:https://allthatsinteresting.com/keelhauling.
This route includes a slight variation and direct finish to the third pitch of Keel Haul. It was pre-rehearsed on a mini-track, putting it a style notch below the proud ground up FA of Keel Haul. That said, it is extremely high quality, adds a significant chunk of challenging climbing to Keel Haul, and is uniquely steep for an all trad route. I'd also like to add big props to Amity. I can't think of another difficult all trad first ascent by a woman in RMNP.
There is a lot of detail on the third pitch below that should make a ground up ascent reasonable (the R rating really only applies to easier climbing, or if you blow/miss the gear placements). If you want to check the route out from above, it's relatively easy to scramble around to the top of the Ship's Prow to the northwest via some low 5th Class. Look for cairns for the best spot to scramble up and a large cairn marking the top of the route. A big flake that forms a thread makes a perfect anchor directly above the third pitch.
Stop reading if you want a leg shaking, onsight experience.
Climb the first two pitches of Keel Haul. From the anchor atop pitch two, place a #2 C4 just above the belay. Pass through a little roof just above to a small wire placement and optional tiny cam. Reach a jug rail on right and place a red Z4 on the left. Do a long move up to a pod, where you can place a #1 C4, and a blue Z4 to the left. Start into the steep alcove above, and reach up into the roof and place a yellow Z4. Bust a few moves, and clip a fixed wire left by TC and TD. Here, break right via a kneebar, some long moves, and big holds; briefly joining the third pitch of Yard Arms for a few meters at a thin crack (note that Keel Haul's original line loops left at the fixed wire for a few meters). Place a medium wire in the crack before moving up and left onto the tan face. A downsloping horizontal crack takes a blue/yellow Z4 before pulling into the no-hands alcove with two fixed blades and a fixed ballnut. From the alcove, face climb boldly but easily straight up placing a blue/yellow Z4 in a vertical slot. Trend right above this to the roof, placing an excellent purple Z4 at the roof. Pull the roof just right of the purple Z4, and place a red Z4 in a perfect horizontal. Bust out a V4/5 up and left to another horizontal with opportunity for a red or yellow Z4. Some long pulls straight up finally get you over your feet, and a psychological green Z4 placement in a tiny overlap. Jugs lead up over the lip. If you extend the flake anchor approximately 8 feet, you can lower back to the anchor with a 70 meter rope. Needless to say, it's best to runner some of the gear for drag.



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