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Routes in Ship's Prow

Bologna Pony T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Etch-A-Sketch T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Half Day's Work T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Keel Haul T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Man Overboard T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Portal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sarchasm S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scots on the Rocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ship Of Fools T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Tunnel of Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yard Arms T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FFA: 8/2/15 J. Haas and T. Bubb
Page Views: 401 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 14, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a moderate route that can go down quickly with a mere half, or nay... quarter-day's work, and not hard labor. It took us just over 2 hours bottom to top on this one. The rock is mostly solid, the protection is mostly good (though well-spaced at times), and the line is mostly obvious.

Half Day's Work starts up in the right-facing corner system to the left of the start of Man Overboard and Portal. The route starts by ascending up this system in 2 pitches total continuing up and left the entire way past some old pins, particularly 3 old pins in a tight group near the top, near a crux, and just before a grassy ledge. With judicious use of slings, this can all be linked in a single pitch just under 60m long.

From belay on that ledge, the route goes slightly left and then up and right on slightly lower angled rock with an easier technical grade but occasional short runouts. The route leans hard right here and crosses up and over a peerless slab of rock to reach a large ledge with another old pin belay from the 1960s aid ascent. This lies just to the right side of the last 20' of the major buttress that lies up against the main cliff, and can be backed up with gear. It is perhaps 120' for this pitch.

The next pitch climbs up from the pin belay and left onto solid rock. The right-facing corner to the right of the belay is overhung, separated from the main wall, and dirty/chossy. Go up and left then back right at the very peak of the buttress, then pull up to and into a chimney on the right (poorly protected in spots, but moderate) or a left-facing corner on the left (more technical, but less of a grunt), and shoot up more than 60m to the top of the wall, belaying if you feel the need, or simul-climbing for a way otherwise, unless you have an 80m rope.

Arrive on the top, and find something to belay off of that you feel good about. It took me some searching to get a long cord around some big boulders that were bomber.

You can read more or check out a few pictures here:
fixedpin.com/blogs/news/548….

Location

Half Day's Work starts up in the obvious, right-facing corner system to the left of the start of Man Overboard and Portal.

Protection

A light alpine rack with a full set of stoppers, a full set of cams to 3", and some long slings. Take some extra cams in the finger to hand sizes if linking pitches as we did.

Photos

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