Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Topher Donahue, Tommy Caldwell|
|Page Views:||2,513 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||topher donahue on Dec 2, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionWatch for a gymnastic placement for a #0 (purple) Metolius TCU on your right at the lip of the roof that protects the 5.13 crux. After the belay, (1 bolt and pin) look for a 1.25" cam up to the left before traversing right into the runout 5.12 3rd pitch.
The cruxes on this climb are spicy, but the falls are clean even if your pants are not....
Tommy said this route and nearby Keel Haul and Yard Arms are the best naturally protected face climbs he's ever done. Think high quality sport climbing - without the bolts.