Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
FA: Dakota Walz, Tim Noble, & Fidi Nagy, Aug. 2020
Page Views: 461 total · 41/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Aug 19, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Waves of Shade follows up a series of left-leaning dihedrals and roofs along the upper striped wall of the Ship's Prow. Highlights of this route include wonderful, flowing movement and confidence inspiring gear - especially in all the sections of white rock. Plus great face climbing and an amazingly steep hand crack crux at the top of the wall!

The difficulty and lowish star rating are merely due to how fresh the line is. If it were to see a few repeats, I expect it'd earn its third star, and the difficulty would drop a letter grade or more.

P1. 5.10c, 130ft
Climb straight up the first dihedral/chimney off the thing grassy ledge. Cruise through different sections of very featured shatter before reaching the first band of white rock that ends in a left traversing roof (so good!). Rest in a thin band of black rock before launching into another section of white rock - this time on left-leaning fingers. Belay up and left in another black band.

P2. 5.10b, 115ft
Traverse left under the roof before finding some jugs to pull up over onto the face. Climb toward an obvious, wide crack above while chasing gear on really fun slab climbing. Hit a roof, and escape out right with a mantel. Fire the easy looking crack (5.10b), and belay on a large ledge above.

P3. 5.6, 40ft
Walk straight left around a bulge to reveal the major overhang of the final pitch. Climb a bit of 5.6, and belay on the sloping ledge below it.

P4. 5.11c/d, 70ft
Finish with 30 feet of super steep hands on great rock! Tape up, fight the pump, and don't come crashing into your belayer. This section is seriously fun and will be a real kick in the teeth if you're not fit. The rest of the pitch is victory lap to the top of the wall.

Protection

Doubles 0.2-#3
Triples 0.4-0.5 (optional)
Nuts
Draws
60m rope

Location

Hike up toward the Loft past the Leaning Tower (a detached pillar on the features south flank). The route starts well before reaching the East Tower on a thin grassy ledge.

Decent

From the top of the wall, scramble down the backside toward skier's left until the terrain flattens out. Then hike across and down the ridge to the normal decent.

Photos

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