Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: FKA: Dakota Walz, Collin Turbert, Chase Martin, Aug. 2020
Page Views: 700 total · 49/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Aug 24, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Mizzenmast is an amazing route sporting mostly bullet rock up the main face of the West Tower - the highest feature of the Ship's Prow, located the farthest away from Chasm Lake.

The final crux pitch is a sustained, low angle, finger crack that gets more and more exposed the closer you get to the summit. This has been reported as an FKA due to how obvious the line is when descending The Loft. That said, I couldn't find any history or sign of a previous ascent.

P1. 5.7, 180ft
For the most part, this shares the start of Scots on the Rocks. Aim for the hand crack up high, and belay on the nice ledge.

P2. 5.6, 20ft
Move the belay up to the left side of the buttress on a mega ledge. This can be linked with P1 with rope drag.

P3. 5.9, 70ft
Start just left of the chimney between the two buttresses, and climb up the clean, blank face connected by ledges and great thin flakes. Belay on a large ledge.

P4. 5.10a, 100ft
Climb up a clean, blank dihedral before launching into the right-angling roof. This section is easier than it looks, but the gear is tricky. Don't forget to bring the smallest cams! Eventually bust out to the face on more stellar rock, and belay at another mega-ledge right of the prominent buttress. 

P5. 5.10b, 150ft
Traverse left across a catwalk ledge to a huge, balancing flake. Climb up its left side, and dance up some face moves to a small roof. Pull the roof, and enjoy the wonderfully sustained, splitter finger crack that drives up the amazing headwall of the buttress. Other than a pod or two, the crack remains 0.2-0.3 size for about 50 feet of bliss. Belay on the summit.

Protection

Singles 00, 0.1, & #3
Doubles 0.2-#2
Triple 0.2-0.3 (optional)
Nuts
Draws
60m rope

Descent

From the summit, walk across the plank and through the iron sight. Then, hike down a short bit before switching back to the top of The Loft. Descend The Loft back to the base of the route.

Photos

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