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Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Topher Donahue & Patience Donahue - 2000
Page Views: 2,242 total, 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Heavenly Daze is the obvious hard sport line that is immediately left of the Nameless Demons dihedral and about 50' left of the start of Days of Heaven.

It is probably a little soft for the grade, but nevertheless the climbing is fantastic. There are several very hard moves (two of which are pulling over bulges) on postive holds but none of them felt reach-dependent or insecure. The definite crux comes around the 5th/6th bolt - ramping edges and difficult feet. The climb is very well-bolted: run out enough to make you not want to blow it, but the bolts are located well and the clipping holds are always good.

Protection

Three bolts, a pin, three more bolts, an epoxied stopper. Small wires can supplement the gear but they would be very pumpy to place.

Photos

Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Jesse Jakomait   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Bring your tight edging shoes and a 70m rope for this amazing sport gem in the mountains! Reminds me of climbing at Thunder Ridge in the South Platte. Great sustained edges and a lot of full value moves all the way up to the high crux. Jul 5, 2017
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
It makes sense when you consider that (I presume) they were drilling by hand. Aug 28, 2012
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
  5.12-
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
  5.12-
Cool route, but why the epoxied stopper when the rest of the route is bolted? Aug 28, 2012
CO_Michael  
 
Funny, Pa took me to this place too. I like this route ALOT! Best sport route that I have climbed so far. Climbed it after Heidi W. showed me were to place the gear between the bolts. Jul 12, 2008
Did the route shortly after the FA, with Patience and ripped off this huge tooth of a rock which landed exactly where her head would have been as she sat belaying. If I hadn't fallen and pulled her ever so slightly to the side, I would be writing a much different comment.... Needless to say, that was a very bad situation, and I can't believe we kept climbing. We both were running on a shot of adrenaline, for sure!

The route is safer now, with at least that timebomb off in history. Sep 5, 2007