Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
Routes in Rock Of Ages
|Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Gillett, Hill, & Gillett, 1994|
|Page Views:||4,520 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jul 18, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionCelestial Gate - what a phenomenal route! May even rival Days of Heaven.
P1: Do the dodgy original start or, better yet, do P1 of Days of Heaven, but walk the belay to the far left end of the foot ledge to the base of a nice finger crack.
P2: The crux pitch, but probably only 5.11. Climb up the steep finger crack with some creativity until you pull into a welcome fist-jam size constriction. This is where Days of Heaven P2 joins with the crack - follow it up to the super cool belay ledge below the hand crack.
P3: Follow the hand crack up for a few moves then reach left and clip a bolt. Follow the tremendously exposed bolted arete past a total of five bolts up to a nice belay ledge near the top of the wall. This pitch offers some fantastic, exposed face climbing, but if you're not in the mood you can do an 11b finger crack variation by following Days of Heaven for a bit before cutting out left on a thin crack, then up. Soft for 11c?
I loved this climb!