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Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gillett, Hill, & Gillett, 1994
Page Views: 4,520 total, 28/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 18, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Celestial Gate - what a phenomenal route! May even rival Days of Heaven.

P1: Do the dodgy original start or, better yet, do P1 of Days of Heaven, but walk the belay to the far left end of the foot ledge to the base of a nice finger crack.

P2: The crux pitch, but probably only 5.11. Climb up the steep finger crack with some creativity until you pull into a welcome fist-jam size constriction. This is where Days of Heaven P2 joins with the crack - follow it up to the super cool belay ledge below the hand crack.

P3: Follow the hand crack up for a few moves then reach left and clip a bolt. Follow the tremendously exposed bolted arete past a total of five bolts up to a nice belay ledge near the top of the wall. This pitch offers some fantastic, exposed face climbing, but if you're not in the mood you can do an 11b finger crack variation by following Days of Heaven for a bit before cutting out left on a thin crack, then up. Soft for 11c?

I loved this climb!

Protection

SR + TCUs or RPs.

Photos

Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO
Jesse Jakomait   Colorado Springs, CO
Great climb, but I thought P3 was way harder than 11c. I'm much more a sport climber than trad with a lot of experience climbing 12s and can't see how that pitch is rated anything 11. Did something break? Jul 5, 2017
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
5.11+
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
5.11+
Actually, Tony, I believe that phrase is alive and well in World of Warcraft. Nov 1, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Wow, I thought that expression was from the '90s... You remember, right, when you were 4 years old?

Look everyone, another teen who lives with his mom just discovered the internet! Nov 1, 2010
Monkey Den Climber
moab, utah
Monkey Den Climber   moab, utah
Breaking the rules here, but you guys are gay! Nov 1, 2010
Dusty
Fort Collins
  5.12a
Dusty   Fort Collins
  5.12a
(sigh)... Aug 12, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
"Is this some sort of joke??" Well, let's see what the exact quote and context were:

"The stances for placing gear are substantial enough to shake out on and frequent enough to be mostly on TR."

There are climbs where you clip an easy piece over your head from a good stance then do a simple power move. The lead and follow on pitches like that are pretty much the same. I think it's a great route for people pushing that grade to attempt on lead."

Hmmm..... and what did the guy who posted the route say about it?

Oh, I see, he called it 5.11 on lead. That was my partner who lead that pitch (and followed the rest). Aug 11, 2009
Dusty
Fort Collins
  5.12a
Dusty   Fort Collins
  5.12a
From my experience, Jeff, it's actually easier to lead this climb than to follow it. I've only followed it, however. Aug 11, 2009
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.12a
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.12a
"Though I followed it, it probably isn't much different- lead or follow." (quote from above comment)

Is this some sort of joke?? Jul 27, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Classic- at least as good as Days Of Heaven.
I imagine made the best if you continue P2 straight into P3 for one long amazing pitch. Grade? 11c or 11d. The original first pitch is not that bad and not that runout where it matters. It probably is close to 10a, but there are just a few moves around the slab to the right and the gear on the left is up high, where it would produce a reasonably safe fall. As well, there is an option to go up right on the corner and place a so-so red alien, though getting to and down from that might be the hardest move on the pitch... still advisable if you like to feel sewn up. The second pitch was not the crux for me. Though I followed that pitch, it probably isn't much different- lead or follow. The stances for placing gear are substantial enough to shake out on and frequent enough to be mostly on TR. The Third pitch is small balancy holds- felt like the crux to me and spit me off a few times- hope you have some shoes that edge or hold small chips well. Aug 16, 2004
david goldstein  
5.12a
More info on P2, the crux and essentially a 30' variation to P2 of Days of Heaven. The first 20' feet protect well with small nuts; the rest of the pitch uses finger size gear -- you can get by with a very light rack. I found a stopper move about 10' up and did not have much problem with the subsequent endurance moves.

For P3 you need a couple of thin finger to hand size cams for 15' of crack climbing at the end of the pitch. Jul 20, 2004