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Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Shaun Reed
Page Views: 739 total, 28/month
Shared By: Shaun Reed on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Scramble up to a small ledge to the right of Greensleeves, and follow the large, black streak clipping 9 bolts to a left-angling, undercling, finger crack. Climb past a loose block, then cut back right to join the last 10 feet of Pitch Perfect. FYI, I tried to remove the loose block, but it seemed pretty solid. It's fine to pull on, but I wouldn't put a cam behind it.

Only a handful of people I know of have been on this, and it's still awaiting a second lead ascent. Let me know what you think, and enjoy!

Location

It's located on the obvious big black streak to the right of Greensleeves and to the left of Pitch Perfect.

Protection

9 bolts with 2 or 3 cam placements at the top. I used a green Alien and a green Camalot, but there could be other options, too.

Photos

MauryB
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
MauryB   Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Well done, Shaun! Probably the second best route at the cliff after The Wasp! Sustained, techy edging the whole way that doesn't let up. Sep 19, 2016