Days of Heaven
Avg: 3.9 from 97 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Alec Sharp, Pete Bradshaw, Dan Hare, c.1980|
|Page Views:||13,374 total · 64/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is on the Rock of Ages, the first of the cliffs mentioned in the Fern Canyon intro. It is one of the best shorter routes I've ever done, offering fantastic, clean cracks and also some really wild 5.10 moves. Most of the protection is perfect, except for the first pitch. Hike a mile from the Fern Lake trailhead to the Arch Rock campsite (just past the Arch Rocks-- massive boulders, right on the trail, which have tumbled from the cliff. There is some really good bouldering in this area). From there, the cliff should be visible-- a clean, hanging 200 foot slab which sweeps to vertical and is laced with cracks. It faces slightly SW. Scramble up throught talus and thickets to the base, which offers a long overhang.
P1 - belay from the top of a large boulder which offers easy access to the overhang. Stand on a horizontal spike of rock, and turn the roof on jugs (5.10a, a bit committing). Climb up a shallow, 5.9 corner with tricky gear, and traverse 10 feet left to make a semi-hanging belay with small placements. 80'.
P2 - head back right, and climb into a flake system which angles up and left. When a good finger crack appears to the left, place a bomber TCU (believe me, I know), and make a wild move, getting almost horizontal, over a blank wall to gain the crack. Climb up that for 20 strenuous feet to a wonderfully exposed belay right on the edge of the cliff (5.10c). 70'.
P3 - head up the perfect crack to the right, reaching the top (5.10d). Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined. 50'.
Descent: scramble carefully off to the east.