Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Days of Heaven
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 127
votes
Routes in Rock Of Ages
|
Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Desolation Angels T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Pitch Perfect T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 218 ft (66 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Alec Sharp, Pete Bradshaw, Dan Hare, c.1980 |
| Page Views: | 19,239 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route is on the Rock of Ages, the first of the cliffs mentioned in the Fern Canyon intro. It is one of the best shorter routes I've ever done, with clean, splitter cracks from fingers to hands and also some wild 5.10 moves to access these cracks. A classic with character. The pro is generally great on the harder climbing, except for the first pitch, but the route still feels burly for 5.10!
Hike a mile from the Fern Lake trailhead to the Arch Rocks-- massive boulders, right on the trail, which have tumbled from the cliff. (There is some really good bouldering in this area). From there, the cliff should be visible-- a clean, hanging 200 foot slab which sweeps to vertical and is laced with cracks. It faces slightly SW. Scramble up through talus and thickets to the left side of the cliff where a large boulder forms a chimney with the main wall below a long overhang.
P1 - belay from the top of the large boulder which offers easy access to the overhang. Stand on a horizontal spike of rock, and turn the roof on jugs (5.10a, a bit committing) to a good rest. Continue up a funky 5.9 groove, and belay on a small ledge above it, if you have the right gear. If not, traverse left to a semi-hanging belay at a piton and horn that can be slung, 80'.
P2 - head straight up (or back right) up seams, and climb into a flake system which angles up and left. When a good finger crack appears to the left, place a bomber TCU, and make a wild move, getting almost horizontal, over a blank wall to gain the crack. Climb up that for 20 strenuous, exposed feet to an incredible belay perch right on the edge of the cliff (5.10c), 70'. (Note: if bad weather comes in, you can rap from here straight to the ground, which slopes up below the left side of the cliff, with a single 60 meter rope, but you'll have to leave gear.)
P3 - head up the splitter right-slanting crack, reaching the top (5.10d), 50'. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined into an incredible lead with numerous varied 5.10 cruxes, though the belay atop P2 is worth savoring, and if both partners want an awesome crux lead, it makes sense to break things up. Also, the belay below pitch 2 can be quite uncomfortable, while the belay below pitch 3 is a great stance.
Descent: scramble carefully off to the east, or traverse west (most will want a rope) to a rap anchor above a mixed climb (Heavenly Daze) to the left. A 60m suffices for this rap with some downclimbing, and a 70m would be comfortable.
Hike a mile from the Fern Lake trailhead to the Arch Rocks-- massive boulders, right on the trail, which have tumbled from the cliff. (There is some really good bouldering in this area). From there, the cliff should be visible-- a clean, hanging 200 foot slab which sweeps to vertical and is laced with cracks. It faces slightly SW. Scramble up through talus and thickets to the left side of the cliff where a large boulder forms a chimney with the main wall below a long overhang.
P1 - belay from the top of the large boulder which offers easy access to the overhang. Stand on a horizontal spike of rock, and turn the roof on jugs (5.10a, a bit committing) to a good rest. Continue up a funky 5.9 groove, and belay on a small ledge above it, if you have the right gear. If not, traverse left to a semi-hanging belay at a piton and horn that can be slung, 80'.
P2 - head straight up (or back right) up seams, and climb into a flake system which angles up and left. When a good finger crack appears to the left, place a bomber TCU, and make a wild move, getting almost horizontal, over a blank wall to gain the crack. Climb up that for 20 strenuous, exposed feet to an incredible belay perch right on the edge of the cliff (5.10c), 70'. (Note: if bad weather comes in, you can rap from here straight to the ground, which slopes up below the left side of the cliff, with a single 60 meter rope, but you'll have to leave gear.)
P3 - head up the splitter right-slanting crack, reaching the top (5.10d), 50'. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined into an incredible lead with numerous varied 5.10 cruxes, though the belay atop P2 is worth savoring, and if both partners want an awesome crux lead, it makes sense to break things up. Also, the belay below pitch 2 can be quite uncomfortable, while the belay below pitch 3 is a great stance.
Descent: scramble carefully off to the east, or traverse west (most will want a rope) to a rap anchor above a mixed climb (Heavenly Daze) to the left. A 60m suffices for this rap with some downclimbing, and a 70m would be comfortable.
Photos
18 Comments