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Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Topher Donahe, Keith Garvey, Patience Gribble
Page Views: 1,118 total · 7/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun route that deserves more traffic. Find it on the SE corner of the main Rock of Ages cliff: a thin crack on a hanging slab, above an overhang. It's somewhat dirty, but not as bad as it looks, and the moves are super fun. An overhanging boulder problem start past fixed gear leads to a good rest; the finger crack above is pretty solid 5.11 and gear is pumpy to place. Save some guns for the finger stacks at the end! The route as a whole is safe to lead but somewhat spicy.

The anchor is 2 thin, partially driven pins. It's hard to back up, and in my opinion is just barely adequate; a # of other anchors in this area consist of one bolt and one pin, and I think this anchor could benefit from the addition of a bolt. At any rate, be prepared to leave some webbing as this thing doesn't seem to get done very often.

Protection

1 fixed rp + 1 fixed pin, then standard rack (heavy on thin stuff)

Photos

topher donahue
Nederland, CO
topher donahue   Nederland, CO
Drilled a bolt at the anchor, so it is now a piton and bolt anchor. Mar 1, 2009

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