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Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Gillett & McMahan - 1997
Page Views: 3,535 total, 22/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 18, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Greensleeves takes a line on the upper tier of Rock of Ages, just left of a black streak and left of The Wasp.

Follow an easy finger crack for 20' to the first bolt. The rest of the climb is a very sustained crimping - as Bernard Gillett says in his guidebook: a whole lot of 5.11 and a 5.12 move near the top.

Protection

A couple wires for the start and 9 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Super thin! Felt just as hard as The Wasp. I will wear my Boostics next time. Jun 26, 2017
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
The start protects really well with a green C3, or offset cam in that range, and a #6 brass offset. Other than that, bolted very well. Jul 1, 2014
If you liked this rig...check out these:

"CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity (Crago Luebben) at Greyrock
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:
  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)
Feb 24, 2010
Excellent route, probably harder than The Wasp! At the last bolt, one can go straight up at .10+ [eliminating] the [runout]. May 9, 2005
david goldstein
  5.12b
david goldstein  
  5.12b
Somewhat similar in character to Untitled in Eldo and Plan B in Boulder Canyon: no stopper moves but there are virtually no rests and you could blow it almost anywhere. A couple of the clips are just reachable at 5'7". The holds are still consolidating -- my partner I both had holds crumble under us. Wear good edging shoes This route faces south but would best be done when shaded. At the end of pitch the natural line trends left, away from the anchors and pretty far from the last bolt; this stretch can be protected with a small RP which can be backcleaned (straightening out the rope) once good holds are reached. Jul 20, 2004