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Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell (hardware by Mike Wray)
Page Views: 2,822 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin Telekinesis with a relatively mild section of interesting 12- climbing on edges and ledges until you reach a mini-roof and a precarious shake. Clip up before drifting a bit right through the roof and immediately engage in a desperate, extremely thin crux with very few hold options. Continue crimping on bullet, beautiful, green colored stone for what seems like 2-3 hours. This upper section eases up a little, but there are no rests (especially not for your calves).

Location

This is directly right of The Wasp.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Brain Stem - 13+. FA: Topher Donahue. Sep 25, 2011
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
Anyone know what the heinously hard, blank dihedral is to the right of this line? Sep 25, 2011
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
"...relatively mild section of interesting 12-..."

That statement and the look of this climb underlines how pushing the limits has taken this sport to an order of magnitude above what we used to even consider! May 4, 2009