Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Rock Of Ages

Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desolation Angels T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pitch Perfect T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 15,858 total, 121/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Wasp may be THE best single pitch, trad, granite route of its style and difficulty in Colorado! There are a couple single-pitch routes in CO that come close, but this is a unique gem combining great rock, super aesthetic moves, and great pro. In my opinion, California fine-grained granite has always catered to more memorable crack pitches than almost anywhere in CO, except for this very spot (and parts of the Platte).

A word about ratings. …I had heard a couple comments from climbers who felt that The Wasp does not warrant a 13a rating, and to be honest, neither did I. But...I did not onsight it, and I completely sieged the route by fully inspecting gear placements and moves on rappel. How can anyone accurately rate a climb? It is so subjective and with any climb there will always be many factors that will obviously affect the perception of difficulty. At the time I redpointed this route, I knew a couple climbers who came close but only 2 climbers who had onsighted it, and I am assuming each was a true onsight. To onsight the Wasp without ANY prior knowledge of the moves OR the gear placements is an awesome accomplishment. En route, there are some cryptic sections and a couple of moves where you must bear down, but in general the climbing is more cerebral, and there are no “stopper” crux moves. On the other hand, the gear requires some thought in a few placements, but as a whole the route protects beautifully. Every climb is different. The Wasp was for me “easy to learn”. I believe this would be the same for most. Nonetheless, it is a worthy and challenging climb whatever you decide to personally rate it.

Location

Located on the upper tier of ROA between Greensleeves and a Tommy Caldwell 13- fully bolted route (which is left of a Topher D. torturous corner route) is The Wasp. Start at a flake that becomes a straight in crack. Near the middle, the route zigs left and zags right to a rest before the last leftward stretch to the top and the bolted anchor.

Protection

Bolted anchor, one pin (last piece), an assortment of standard and "offset" nuts through the size range but mostly in the medium range, double cams from Metolius #0 TCU through flexy WC Friends #2.5 (three 1.5 Friends), and runners including double-length. Double rope technique could be helpful due to the zig-zagging nature of the line.
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12+
It climbs like a sport route.... Sep 12, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
^When did the Wasp get fully bolted Mich? Jun 26, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12+
The Wasp gets my vote for the best single pitch in the Front Range. Sport climbs don't get much better than this!

This route seems much harder to onsight than to redpoint after a little gear tinkering due to the technicality of the movement and fiddly nature of the gear. It was definitely safe to lead ground-up but much easier (and less demoralizing) to send after a quick TR recon.

No gear larger than a #1 Camalot is needed, and I would suggest bringing a red mastercam for up high (fits better than a 0.75).

There was no rope drag with a few strategically-placed shoulder-length slings and quickdraws. Jun 26, 2017
alix morris
Estes Park, CO
alix morris   Estes Park, CO
Soooo good! Like really, really, really AWESOME and beautiful. Great rock. Tons of feet... awesome gear (especially if you sort it on rappel)! You don't have to place any nuts to sew it up too!

Highly encourage everyone to get on it even if it's not a grade you usually climb. You will surprise yourself. With good footwork, it isn't very powerful. It's a ballet! Jun 22, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12+
Incredible pitch. I might suggest traversing at the good crimps before the piton instead of going straight up. I did not (do-oh) and took an enormous whipper from just above and right of the pin with absolutely no holds to clip from.

The final mantel is fun but didn't feel nearly as hard as the upper or the lower crux. Jun 5, 2017
Was up there the other day 9/18/16 and think our group left some gear. It was dark, and I think it was left on a ledge... some ultralight cams, (0.5, 0.75, a little blue Metolius, and a Grigri, at the least...). Please PM me if you found it, I will totally give you $ or a cam as reward! Thanks,

Jesse Sep 23, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
No fixed gear is present except the pin at the top. Aug 18, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.13a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.13a
There is currently an RP and 0.3 Camalot fixed below the crux. Awesome route. Jul 16, 2014
Casey McTaggart
boulder, co
Casey McTaggart   boulder, co
Anyone been up there this year and know about the snow/approach/etc? Apr 12, 2013
One of the best pitches I've ever done. Anywhere. Jun 9, 2011
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12d
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12d
Without a doubt, one of the best pitches I've done.

While there are some good rests and no single stopper move, the pump stays on you.

4 stars for movement, aesthetics, and setting. Nov 22, 2010
DonP  
For some video beta check out Heidi Wirtz's segments throughout Front Range Freaks, and don't forget to vote for Heidi for the Inspiring Soles Award! Jan 8, 2009
Dusty
Fort Collins
  5.13a
Dusty   Fort Collins
  5.13a
Spectacular route. Great movement, good gear, perfect location, and a desperate mantle to finish it up. Oct 7, 2008
MauryB
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
MauryB   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Amazing route! Don't know why you would want to mess with doubles though, a single rope is fine. Jul 14, 2008
Cassidy Hill  
 
No single move as hard as the crux on Evictor, but overall a more demanding route both mentally and physically. This route is super technical, and it stays on you until you clip the anchor. Perfect rock in a perfect setting rock climbing doesn't get much better than this. Jul 7, 2008
Joe Collins
  5.12+
Joe Collins  
  5.12+
A classic and memorable pitch of "hard" trad. Well-protected throughout, but the gear at the crux requires a bit of tinkering to get it right. Comparing to another local testpiece of similar grade, it is not as hard as The Evictor, but YMMV. Jun 29, 2007