PRINT: Rock Climb Heavenly Daze, RMNP

Heavenly Daze

5.12b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 10 votes
FA: Topher Donahue & Patience Donahue - 2000
Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Fern Canyon Rocks > Rock Of Ages

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Heavenly Daze is the obvious hard sport line that is immediately left of the Nameless Demons dihedral and about 50' left of the start of Days of Heaven.

It is probably a little soft for the grade, but nevertheless the climbing is fantastic. There are several very hard moves (two of which are pulling over bulges) on postive holds but none of them felt reach-dependent or insecure. The definite crux comes around the 5th/6th bolt - ramping edges and difficult feet. The climb is very well-bolted: run out enough to make you not want to blow it, but the bolts are located well and the clipping holds are always good.

Protection

Three bolts, a pin, three more bolts, an epoxied stopper. Small wires can supplement the gear but they would be very pumpy to place.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route lines for Desolation Angels, Heavenly Daze, and Nameless Demons.

Glued in stopper near the top of the route.

Unknown climber approaching the crux on the upper headwall....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Shainman
Littleton, CO

Did the route shortly after the FA, with Patience and ripped off this huge tooth of a rock which landed exactly where her head would have been as she sat belaying. If I hadn't fallen and pulled her ever so slightly to the side, I would be writing a much different comment.... Needless to say, that was a very bad situation, and I can't believe we kept climbing. We both were running on a shot of adrenaline, for sure!

The route is safer now, with at least that timebomb off in history. Sep 5, 2007

CO_Michael

Funny, Pa took me to this place too. I like this route ALOT! Best sport route that I have climbed so far. Climbed it after Heidi W. showed me were to place the gear between the bolts. Jul 12, 2008

Stefan Griebel
Boulder, CO

5.12-

Cool route, but why the epoxied stopper when the rest of the route is bolted? Aug 28, 2012

Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO

5.12b

Bring your tight edging shoes and a 70m rope for this amazing sport gem in the mountains! Reminds me of climbing at Thunder Ridge in the South Platte. Great sustained edges and a lot of full value moves all the way up to the high crux. Jul 5, 2017