Type: Sport
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 2,443 total · 10/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 8, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Maybe they should call this the "reclamation" route since it sat unrepeated for years after the first ascent, which left the route in a less-than-perfect state for repeat parties.

Fortunately Western Slopers Jeff Achey and Lee Sheftel became bored enough to have a go at the thing, Achey removing many of the hanging death daggers that littered the route and Sheftel moving a bolt or two. Now it's a pretty fun climb and isn't all greased-out like everything else at Ruckman.

This is the long route on the overhung, pocketed buttress between In Your Face and Firearms. Boulder up a crozzler crack thing then move right into big pockets. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux roof and a perplexing headwall, after which you step right and clip the anchors on Firearms.

Be careful when pulling your rope lest it end up in the fetid mud pit beneath the route.

Protection

10-11 quickdraws.

Photos