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When the Levee Breaks
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 24
votes
Routes in Ruckman Cave
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A Spy From the Country of Rainmen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Antichamber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Choss Family Robinson S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Extended Family S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grades of Wrath (submitted as Wreaths of Wrath) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kenose Eskapa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nessun Dorma S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Objectivity Exchange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Overstoker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rave Over Truth and Beauty, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Return to Sender (aka Cap-gun) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Shibumi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waiting For 21 S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter, Scott Nykerk, and Mark Regier |
| Page Views: | 1,905 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Jun 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in between Supre Guide and the Cooch Cave.
Climb through a horizontal break at the start with a long reach and lock off at the second bolt. Above the second bolt, you can escape right to a dirty crack or stay on the steeper face with a series of pockets and more devious sequences before the difficulty eases around the fourth bolt. Climb through an easier section before the route steepens towards the top. At the second to last bolt, use a long draw or sling and then climb up and right onto the face proper, clipping the last bolt in a section of featured, sharp limestone below the anchor.
I hesitate to post this route so soon as it still deserves some good cleaning, brushing, etc. With some traffic, this route should clean up into a nice mid-5.10 or easier. I post it to answer any question about what it might be and to encourage anyone who wants to help do the climbing community a favor and put some traffic in on it and help clean it up. We'll be out there some more to get it cleaned up.
Climb through a horizontal break at the start with a long reach and lock off at the second bolt. Above the second bolt, you can escape right to a dirty crack or stay on the steeper face with a series of pockets and more devious sequences before the difficulty eases around the fourth bolt. Climb through an easier section before the route steepens towards the top. At the second to last bolt, use a long draw or sling and then climb up and right onto the face proper, clipping the last bolt in a section of featured, sharp limestone below the anchor.
I hesitate to post this route so soon as it still deserves some good cleaning, brushing, etc. With some traffic, this route should clean up into a nice mid-5.10 or easier. I post it to answer any question about what it might be and to encourage anyone who wants to help do the climbing community a favor and put some traffic in on it and help clean it up. We'll be out there some more to get it cleaned up.
Location
Located to the right of the Ruckman Cave proper, this route climbs a gray streak 150+ feet to the left of Supre Guide. It is best approached by parking at the Ruckman Cave and hiking up the road past the spot where the creek goes under the road. A faint climbers' trail (not the Koper Trail) goes up the hilll along the wall and leads to Supre Guide. Alternatively, you can also easily park at the campground and hike down canyon to this area. Look for the glue-in bolts.
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