Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ruckman Cave

Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender") S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Choss Family Robinson S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Extended Family S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nessun Dorma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shibumi S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waiting For 21 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wreaths of Wrath S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter, Scott Nykerk, and Mark Regier
Page Views: 999 total, 13/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 26, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in between Supre Guide and the Cooch Cave.

Climb through a horizontal break at the start with a long reach and lock off at the second bolt. Above the second bolt, you can escape right to a dirty crack or stay on the steeper face with a series of pockets and more devious sequences before the difficulty eases around the fourth bolt. Climb through an easier section before the route steepens towards the top. At the second to last bolt, use a long draw or sling and then climb up and right onto the face proper, clipping the last bolt in a section of featured, sharp limestone below the anchor.

I hesitate to post this route so soon as it still deserves some good cleaning, brushing, etc. With some traffic, this route should clean up into a nice mid-5.10 or easier. I post it to answer any question about what it might be and to encourage anyone who wants to help do the climbing community a favor and put some traffic in on it and help clean it up. We'll be out there some more to get it cleaned up.

Location

Located to the right of the Ruckman Cave proper, this route climbs a gray streak 150+ feet to the left of Supre Guide. It is best approached by parking at the Ruckman Cave and hiking up the road past the spot where the creek goes under the road. A faint climbers' trail (not the Koper Trail) goes up the hilll along the wall and leads to Supre Guide. Alternatively, you can also easily park at the campground and hike down canyon to this area. Look for the glue-in bolts.

Protection

9 glue-in bolts and the anchor.

Photos

D Sharp
Boulder, CO
  5.10
D Sharp   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Not a horrible route per se, but it's dirty as heck (I looked like someone dumped a bag of cement on me when I got down), and the line is not particularly natural.

We all "escaped" to the right in the dingy corner... seems counter-intuitive to stay on the headwall at that point.

In either case, it does serve well as a warm-up if the other 10s are taken next to the cave. Don't forget to clean your shoes off before you attempt anything harder in the cave.... Jun 15, 2014