Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Darek Krol ??? - 2008 ???
Page Views: 389 total · 3/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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25 Opinions

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Description

Kielbasa Run is a new route on the far left side of the Ruckman Cave. Just left of Beer Run and The Promise are three routes that all share the same two-bolt start up low angle rock. Kielbasa Run is the first route to the left of this start; it also has a two-bolt start up low angle rock. From the ledge above this, trend up and left into the corner system. The tightly bolted start is reassuring due to some friable rock that will undoubtedly clean up with traffic. Fun, overhanging corners lead to an exposed arete. From here, step back left into the corner again and work through a stemming crux and then lower angle rock to the very top of the wall.

Protection

18 draws or so. A 60m rope will not reach the ground; you must use a 70m (or lower twice from a neighboring route's anchors)!

Photos

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Jeremy H
  5.12a
Jeremy H  
  5.12a
This route is reallllllly dirty. There are also some blocks that should be cleaned off to make it safer. Aug 3, 2009
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
 
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
 
This route is now in very good shape-no loose rock on my redpoint today. Minimal dirt/runoff and only on the last bolt or two where the climbing is easy. This line is really worth doing. Jul 27, 2014
D-Storm
  5.12a
D-Storm  
  5.12a
A worthwhile route, but beware that there are still plenty of wiggly blocks and holds, especially at the beginning off the ledge. At the second clip above the ledge, there are some big blocks with chalk all over them—there's nothing else to grab at that point, really—and I felt them flex. Don't linger there!

As far as the grade, I believe Darek originally rated it 5.11d, and I can see why. I wouldn't argue with it if that's how it were rated here. And I'm not really arguing with 12a, either, but I would call it soft 12a. There isn't a move harder than 5.11 and there are several rests, including a no-hands ledge halfway up before you begin the sustained, technical stemming and liebacking in the groove. But this rig is just so looong that you will be tired at the top. It's a full 35 meters to the chains, so definitely use a 70-meter rope.

Edit to add: After doing Wreaths of Wrath to the left, I think this route is actually the harder of the two. Jul 10, 2017