Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 6,269 total · 30/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 24, 2001 with updates from Gargano
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

This is an incredible route -- you may recognize it from the cover shot on the first Rifle guidebook by Hassan Saab. It is a long, airy pitch on the beautiful white and blue streaked wall left of the Ruckman Cave.

Beer Run is the rightmost of a quartet of long, "slabby" routes on the towering wall left of Ruckman and can be recognized by an often-fixed long draw at the lower crux. It climbs just left of a huge round bowl at mid-height on the cliff-band and tackles a series of well-chalked laybacks.

Pass an initial bolt or two to reach a ledge (5.10) then step onto the wall and begin laybacking. The laybacks soon become thinner and you're forced to crimp a bit before a pumpy crux deposits you at an awesome resting hole. Surge up and right from the hole onto the expansive headwall and save some juice for the 5.9+ run-out to the anchors.

This brilliant line is a testimony to the power of beer and to one man's courageous journey down to the distant village of Rifle to procure a six-pack prior to the first ascent.

Protection

14 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope (mandatory).

Per Michael Schneiter, the 6th bolt has been replaced.

Photos

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Joe Collins  
 
The runout to the anchors is more like 10+/11- and shouldn't be taken lightly if you are working on this route. It is extremely pumpy after pulling the Tombstone crux. Make sure you have it worked out before the send, or else a very disappointing 35 footer from the chains is likely. One of the best pitches ever. Jun 2, 2006
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
Sneaky, steep route. Once you've pulled the low mantle crux, it's really restful and broken up to the top. Trust those feet up high. Apr 6, 2010
dbyte
Carbondale, CO
dbyte   Carbondale, CO
FYI: the 6th bolt pulled out today. No visible damage to the bolt shaft, hanger, or the permadraw. The assumption right now is that the bolt may have been tightened down too much, causing the sleeve to crack. The R&I people have it, so hopefully it'll get replaced ASAP. Jun 24, 2012
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
The 6th bolt was replaced. Oct 22, 2012