Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Gray Ringsby
Page Views: 1,401 total · 8/month
Shared By: chad wolak on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This route is a forgotten classic and, although not as good as other routes in the cave proper, it's a hell of a lot fun.

Head Full of Lead is located on the left side of the Ruckman Cave proper in between Choss Family and Street Knowledge. Interesting and powerful underclings and no good rest make this route a fun challenge. A difficult move guards the anchors and potential for a nasty fall exists...TAKE CARE near the chains.

Protection

4 bolts plus anchors (Western Sloper mentions 5 bolts, but the anchors have been lowered and the 5th bolt removed).

Photos

Unless all the bolts have been replaced on this climb they should be considered suspect. One pulled on me a few years back and it appeared that the bolt was never tightened. I doubt the first ascentionist knew what they were doing. Jun 22, 2004
Peggy Sayer
  5.12a
Peggy Sayer  
  5.12a
The anchors were [replaced] and the final bolt as well in spring 2004. The anchors are now lower and much easier to clip if placing the draws. Jun 22, 2005