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Routes in Ruckman Cave

Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender") S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Choss Family Robinson S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Extended Family S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nessun Dorma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shibumi S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waiting For 21 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wreaths of Wrath S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Gray Ringsby
Page Views: 1,354 total, 8/month
Shared By: chad wolak on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is a forgotten classic and, although not as good as other routes in the cave proper, it's a hell of a lot fun.

Head Full of Lead is located on the left side of the Ruckman Cave proper in between Choss Family and Street Knowledge. Interesting and powerful underclings and no good rest make this route a fun challenge. A difficult move guards the anchors and potential for a nasty fall exists...TAKE CARE near the chains.

Protection

4 bolts plus anchors (Western Sloper mentions 5 bolts, but the anchors have been lowered and the 5th bolt removed).

Photos

Peggy Sayer
  5.12a
Peggy Sayer  
  5.12a
The anchors were [replaced] and the final bolt as well in spring 2004. The anchors are now lower and much easier to clip if placing the draws. Jun 22, 2005
Unless all the bolts have been replaced on this climb they should be considered suspect. One pulled on me a few years back and it appeared that the bolt was never tightened. I doubt the first ascentionist knew what they were doing. Jun 22, 2004