Type: Sport
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 9,944 total · 47/month
Shared By: Sean Bradley on Jul 20, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


172 Opinions

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Description

It goes up to a two bolt anchor a few feet below the large roof. Follow pinches up the wall with good clips. The sequence is hard to follow 3/4 of the way up.

Location

The route goes right up the center of the Ruckman Cave almost directly ahead of the trail.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt LO.

Photos

A great route. Originally named Pump Action by Bret and Stuart Ruckman May 1, 2004
the last clip is not easy!!! better to take the big whip than to hang the draw. May 1, 2005
Peggy Sayer
  5.12b
Peggy Sayer  
  5.12b
Matt - if you are replacing the last bolt - thanks so much. this is one of my favorite routes in Rifle and we [regularly] use this as one of our warm ups. Jun 22, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
I always enjoy this route. I think the last clip adds to the route. Isn't half the fun of climbing in the challenge? Just think of clipping this bolt as the crux. Jul 26, 2005
426
 
426  
 
Great route, super "primer" for harder routes in the park... Mar 21, 2007
Jeremy H  
 
A large chunk of rock fell off this last week. The piece that is missing was used as a foot hold in the crux. The route still goes at 12b, but it is a little trickier for your feet. May 17, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12b
Classic route. Intriguing, unique movement that will leave you smiling all the way. May 18, 2009
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
 
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
 
This route is disgustingly polished and greasy, I was climbing this route when it was 35 degrees in the shade and it was still the slickest thing I've ever touched. The best jug on the route I can barely hold without pumping out due to the greasy rock. It's like climbing up an ice route without crampons or axes. Major props to anyone who can send this. Nov 5, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Like most limestone after a lot of use; makes one dream about granite. Nov 5, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

Enjoy! Aug 10, 2014
drewhouser
  5.12b
drewhouser  
  5.12b
To counter the sparrow, I climbed this thing in the sun at 70 degrees. Are the holds polished? Yes. Are they huge and awesome anyways? Yes. This route is so good. Don't let the sparrow scare you away as it earns an easy 3.49 stars. If only it were longer. If you climb anywhere near the grade, you won't regret climbing this thing. A drop knee makes the last clip a cinch! Sep 8, 2015
Aleks Zebastian
Boulder, CO
Aleks Zebastian   Boulder, CO
Climbing friend,

Are you pinching on the funny stuff?

It is like an ice route, yes, ho ho! ha ha! There also may be fresh aids-blood in the rest of hand jamben-style, so be sure you are not having fresh open wounds on your hands! Sep 10, 2016