Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ruckman Cave

Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender") S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Choss Family Robinson S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Extended Family S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nessun Dorma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shibumi S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waiting For 21 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wreaths of Wrath S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 9,246 total, 46/month
Shared By: Sean Bradley on Jul 20, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


146 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

It goes up to a two bolt anchor a few feet below the large roof. Follow pinches up the wall with good clips. The sequence is hard to follow 3/4 of the way up.

Location

The route goes right up the center of the Ruckman Cave almost directly ahead of the trail.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt LO.
Aleks Zebastian
Boulder, CO
Aleks Zebastian   Boulder, CO
Climbing friend,

Are you pinching on the funny stuff?

It is like an ice route, yes, ho ho! ha ha! There also may be fresh aids-blood in the rest of hand jamben-style, so be sure you are not having fresh open wounds on your hands! Sep 10, 2016
drewhouser
  5.12b
drewhouser  
  5.12b
To counter the sparrow, I climbed this thing in the sun at 70 degrees. Are the holds polished? Yes. Are they huge and awesome anyways? Yes. This route is so good. Don't let the sparrow scare you away as it earns an easy 3.49 stars. If only it were longer. If you climb anywhere near the grade, you won't regret climbing this thing. A drop knee makes the last clip a cinch! Sep 8, 2015
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

Enjoy! Aug 10, 2014
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Like most limestone after a lot of use; makes one dream about granite. Nov 5, 2013
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
 
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
 
This route is disgustingly polished and greasy, I was climbing this route when it was 35 degrees in the shade and it was still the slickest thing I've ever touched. The best jug on the route I can barely hold without pumping out due to the greasy rock. It's like climbing up an ice route without crampons or axes. Major props to anyone who can send this. Nov 5, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12b
Classic route. Intriguing, unique movement that will leave you smiling all the way. May 18, 2009
Jeremy H  
 
A large chunk of rock fell off this last week. The piece that is missing was used as a foot hold in the crux. The route still goes at 12b, but it is a little trickier for your feet. May 17, 2009
426
 
426  
 
Great route, super "primer" for harder routes in the park... Mar 21, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
I always enjoy this route. I think the last clip adds to the route. Isn't half the fun of climbing in the challenge? Just think of clipping this bolt as the crux. Jul 26, 2005
Peggy Sayer
  5.12b
Peggy Sayer  
  5.12b
Matt - if you are replacing the last bolt - thanks so much. this is one of my favorite routes in Rifle and we [regularly] use this as one of our warm ups. Jun 22, 2005
the last clip is not easy!!! better to take the big whip than to hang the draw. May 1, 2005
A great route. Originally named Pump Action by Bret and Stuart Ruckman May 1, 2004