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Routes in Ruckman Cave

Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender") S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Choss Family Robinson S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Extended Family S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nessun Dorma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shibumi S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waiting For 21 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wreaths of Wrath S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Surette
Page Views: 713 total, 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on May 24, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the "escape route" from the center of the Ruckman Cave, punching out the body-length roof to climb the nice tan headwall above the uber-greasy cave. It is done as one big pitch, and ends at anchors about 50 feet over the lip of the cave in a small depression.

Begin on the central route in the cave, Bolt Action, a former 11d turned possible 12a by eroding holds, polished foot knobs, and the disappearance of a huge block. Follow this for 7 or 8 bolts to the double cold-shuts below the roof. (Skip this route's first clip so as to avoid rope drag.)

Put a long draw on one of the shuts, a double draw out on the bolt in the roof, and bust a strenous boulder problem out, and over, the lip. It helped me to climb up, clip the long draw, then climb back down below the cold-shut anchor to a kneescum rest.

Once over the lip, 5.12-type climbing on great rock leads to another cold shut anchor. Lower twice to clean your draws. If the route getting up to the roof were better, this would probably merit another star.

Protection

15-16 quickdraws (some long, or doubled) and a 60-meter rope.

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