Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith
Page Views: 3,786 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sean F. Bradley on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This is agreat route with powerful, dynamic moves. The crux is about from halfway up the route to the belay with large moves at the top. It's the farthest route right under the large roof.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt lower off. It might have chains, I can't remember.

Photos

Peggy Sayer
  5.12d
Peggy Sayer  
  5.12d
Good route for someone who boulders. Great fun. Look for the vulcan hold undercling for the left hand when climbing past the last bolt and over the bulge. Some people skip the last clip to save energy. It is possible to get a good stance with the feet to clip, but may not work so well for taller folks. Jun 22, 2005
ac
 
ac  
 
I disagree that this is a "boulderer's route". This is all about power endurance, and climbing efficiently enough to have juice for the final move (crux). I think its only a V3ish crux, which most people who get on this route will quickly figure out, but it is very low percentage when pumped. Jun 27, 2005
426
  5.12d
426  
  5.12d
I'm with ac, this route required some good power enduro for me to redpoint...but I guess compared to a lot of newer rifle routes it is "short"...

Ultra fun in any case! Mar 21, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12d
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12d
I liked the way the route climbed, but it was a greasefest. Sep 11, 2007
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
The remaining old bolts (first perma-drawed bolt and last bolt) on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA.

The other bolts were replaced a few years ago with stainless 5 pieces.

Enjoy! Aug 10, 2014