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Wunsch's Dihedral
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British C0
Avg: 4 from 243
votes
Early Access
Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
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50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chip off the Old Buffalo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 39.42059, -105.25164 |
| FA: | assorted |
| Page Views: | 52,365 total · 171/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Sep 25, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
5 stars. This may be THE best crack climb in the South Platte region, even if the crux is thin face climbing. If you have not done this route, get after it ASAP. The climb takes on the awesome, striking crack and corner system which splits the south face of Cynical Pinnacle.
Hump up the hill, and find the steep corridor which leads to the start of this and the Center Route. The route described here is "The Complete Wunsch's Dihedral", which avoids the original first pitch.
Pitch 1: (5.11d) The Breashear's Finger Crack, 5.11d. Climb the tight, straight-in finger crack that splits the end of the alcove. It is hard right off the start, with a tricky move through a pod and bulge. The crack remains strenuous most of the way to the end of the pitch. Protect with many wires and TCUs to 1 or 2 inch cams. Belay on an excellent ledge (fixed anchors). This is a long pitch and is outstanding, and a notoriously harsh warm-up.
Variations:
(1) 5.8: Climb a short right-facing corner to a big ledge. Then aim up through a series of large blocks aiming for the big ledge just below the Pitch 2 corner.
(2) 5.10: Climb a short right-facing corner to a big ledge. Move up and left and join the upper half of Breashears Finger Crack. Follow this thin crack to a comfy ledge.
Pitch 2: (5.11a) Climb the beautiful, sustained, brilliant hand crack directly off the ledge to a semi-sling belay in an alcove below a roof. Locker hand jams the entire way, with a cruxy section near the top. This is an enduro pitch, which means it is awesome sustained 5.10 the entire way with just a few rests. Triples in #1 and #2 were nice to have. Bring extra hand-size cams.
Pitch 3: (5.11b) The Wunsch's Dihedral. Crux pitch. Pull through the chimney/roof into an enduro layback corner, then stem and lieback your way up the incredible corner. The crux of the pitch is a few thin moves in the corner, rather than the roof. Use wired nuts and TCUs for protection. The upper section of the corner eases up (hand-fist crack) for plug and chug jamming (so have a piece or 2 in this size also) to a large sloping belay ledge below a bolt ladder.
Pitch 4: (5.12b) Ascend the 6-bolt ladder directly (or attempt to free the 5.12 face). This is very thin, steep nubbin climbing. It is easily (and often) aided. It is also possible to diverge left at the 3rd or 4th bolt and climb the unprotected face at 5.11 (the original free variation). Or even more commonly, aid the final bolt ladder. The final section above the last bolt is about 10-15 feet of 5.7 slab climbing to the summit....
Descent: You can descend from the summit of the Pinnacle with one 60 meter rope, but a 70m is a bit more comfy. First, use the rap station to the NE, bringing you to the shoulder at the top of the Center Route. From there, you can descend the front side face, to the climber's right of the center route on new bolt anchors. The rappels wander slightly but reach the ground in 4 clean and simple rappels.
This formation is closed Feb. to end of July for bird nesting. It can get pretty hot up there in August, and this is doable even mid-winter on a good day.
If I were to list the 4 must-do, classic 5.10-5.11 (okay, as described Wunsch's is 12b) multi-pitch routes in the state, they would be: Wunsch's Dihedral, The Yellow Wall on the Diamond, The Naked Edge, and The Scenic Cruise.
Descent
Descent: You can descend from the summit of the Pinnacle with one 60 meter rope, but a 70m is a bit more comfy. First, use the rap station to the NE, bringing you to the shoulder at the top of the Center Route. From there, you can descend the front side face, to the climber's right of the center route on new bolt anchors. The rappels wander slightly but reach the ground in 4 clean and simple rappels.
Photos
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