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Routes in Winterfest Wall

A Quark for Quayle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Abortion Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anartichoke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Rattler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo in Limbo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Brokendown Shanty T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Loves Detroit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat's Meow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Consolation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissolution, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Driving Over Stella S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dumb Politicians T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dweeb T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractions S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Generica S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jell-O Brand Napalm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Killian's Red S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leaning Pillar T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pass The Tanning Butter S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pseudo Bullet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumcat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quayle Eats Bush T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Yell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resolution, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Runt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Silver Bullet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunset Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tanning Butter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thin Lizzie (Dodging Ions) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Dumb to Sleep In T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkletoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under The Wire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (G) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lot of Drunk S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 1/94
Page Views: 690 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The first clip is very hard off the ground and is routinely done by steming the face on the left. The first sequence of moves hits you with a thin fingery series past the first bolt and is sound 5.11 just getting to the second clip where another 5.11 series arises. A bit further another crux, just as difficult as the first, arises past clip four. This series goes without a stem (off route) at close to 5.11d but can be avoided to some extent by stepping left and stemming onto the adjacent wall.

Overall, The Dissolution has a bit more continuous climbing than on The Resolution, the stone is good, and the moves can really tax the finger-crimp strength. To keep the dissolution from catching up, make those feet work.

Location

The Dissolution fires up the same face as The Resolution and ten feet to the left.

Protection

Bring seven draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top that is shared with The Resolution.

Photos

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Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11d
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11d
This route can be done completely- without any stemming. The first bolt seems wise to stick-clip. First crux is bouldery when not stemmed, second crux is athletic and balancy, third crux is a very awkward strength move, fourth crux is super crimpy and foot dependent.
All four cruxes seem mid 11-ish. Four quality cruxes? 3 stars! I would give it 4 if it were longer.
I would say 11d for a tall person. Maybe 12a for someone with less reach? Jan 4, 2014
Tzilla Rapdrilla
  5.11d
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
  5.11d
FA - January 1994. Jul 31, 2008