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Routes in Winterfest Wall

A Quark for Quayle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Abortion Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anartichoke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Rattler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo in Limbo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Brokendown Shanty T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Loves Detroit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat's Meow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Consolation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissolution, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Driving Over Stella S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dumb Politicians T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dweeb T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractions S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Generica S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jell-O Brand Napalm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Killian's Red S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leaning Pillar T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pass The Tanning Butter S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pseudo Bullet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumcat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quayle Eats Bush T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Yell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resolution, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Runt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Silver Bullet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunset Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tanning Butter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thin Lizzie (Dodging Ions) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Dumb to Sleep In T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkletoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under The Wire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (G) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lot of Drunk S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ken Trout and Guy Lords, 1990
Page Views: 956 total · 5/month
Shared By: tobias Nitschke on Jan 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is just to the right of Rebel Yell. The crux is half-way up--you diagonal up left over a bulge. The sequence is demanding and tricky but definitely worth the go. I layed back the right edge of the bulge, which allowed me to get my feet up to a ledge and push and grunt my way from there up to a better stance and the higher holds up left. (There looked to be an alternate route on the right up a slab on nasty crimpers.) This one could have been dubbed Rebel Yell as well--that's what I was doing as I forced my way through that section. It felt like one of the harder 11b's I've done....

Protection

5 bolts to double anchor.

Photos

Bern C.
  5.11d
Bern C.  
  5.11d
I did this climb last weekend. It was fun but may be a bit harder than it used to be. It feels like a hold may have gotten smoothed out or fallen off with all the rain from last fall near the 4th bolt. Great climb with some big moves on a thin face. Mar 18, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I first led this route back in the mid-'90s, and a hold broke off before I got to the first bolt---my belayer caught me in his arms the same way you'd catch a maiden jumping out of a castle window. After a few awkward seconds in his arms, I said, "Doug, you can put me down now." Sep 10, 2013
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  5.11b
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  5.11b
I thought the crux was at the top, right below the anchors. I went just the the right of the anchors which required me to do a very awkward mantle with really high feet to gain a pinch. Maybe you can climb around this on the left? I thought it was a really fun route, plenty of rests, and on interesting if not reasonably solid rock. Jan 19, 2010
Ken - obviously a word play on Interstellar Overdrive? Nov 29, 2007
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
FIRST ASCENT: Ken Trout and Guy Lords, 1990. Tom's right about word-play. After getting some of the bolts in on Interstellar Overdrive, one of the Burkes(maybe?)came up and told us that the corner was a climb that had been led on gear. Oops!

I just added winch hooks to the anchor on Stella. I also moved and replaced the first three bolts and it is better protected now. All the extra holes are from trouble with spinners and a scary hollow zone by number three. Nov 28, 2007