Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,809 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is the easiest sport route in this section of cliff, so it should become popular. Pull a bulge past the first bolt, then head for a jutting block. Sneak right around the block (beware the perched stone on the back of the ledge), then back left into a corner. It also goes on the left side of the block but with greater difficulty. The corner ends on a ledge, where the route joins "Twinkletoes" for two more clips and a shared anchor.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Alan: We did this new route yesterday as our final route. We had just done nine to five, a standard Table 5.9. I don't mean to be be too critical but this route is not even close to being 5.10a. If you believe it is, then tell me where the 10a crux is. I followed your route description to the letter and am hard pressed to say it is much greater than 5.8 (Maybe +). I think everyone needs to be careful about rating routes. Our mentors of the YDS never seemed to overrate. I think it would be prudent to be more consevative and not allow our newer climbers to believe that doing routes such as this give them the skills to easily climb any 10a. I don't think we should elevate climbers egos by overrating. This route is obvious case of this. I hope you are not offended. Stuart Allan. Sep 4, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
[ED note: this route was double posted] All of these routes are a kick. This 5.10a lies two routes left of Sunset Arete. Pull up on handle bar jugs for the crux at the first bolt, then kick back for a nice romp to the top. My only beta would be to haul right around the block between bolts 3 and 4. Fun line, good stone, obvious addition, so why did it take so long? Nov 1, 2001
David House
Boulder, CO
David House   Boulder, CO
We did this route today and It's companion Tinkletoes and enjoyed them both! As for the rating, I would call it solid 5.9.I think its just as hard as 9 to 5. We stayed left of the block not by design, but by lack of careful reading of your description. Nov 17, 2002
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
 
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
 
If you go straight up between bolts 3 and 4 (not going right around the block), I think the crux is 5.10a. Oct 23, 2006
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
david, why on Earth would you quote Hubble's guide as some kind of authority? Hubble has always named cracks that were never climbed. His first book to the Platte was called The Brown Book of Lies. No FA parties are listed usually.

Please remove your comments about Alan. He died three months ago. Your presenting yourself as a guy who likes to kick people when they're down.

Once you do, I'll remove my above comments and just leave this:

Last winter the best Himalayan climber in Golden told me this is one of his favorite climbs at Golden Cliffs. Jul 12, 2008
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9
Fun, but couldn't really say it was any harder than 9. I thought the technical crux was going over that bulge around the third bolt, where people are saying to go right. I went straight up the bolt line, thinking that was actually the easiest way, and didn't think it was harder than 9. Mar 25, 2011