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Routes in Winterfest Wall

A Quark for Quayle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Abortion Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anartichoke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Rattler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo in Limbo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Brokendown Shanty T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Loves Detroit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat's Meow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Consolation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissolution, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Driving Over Stella S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dumb Politicians T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dweeb T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractions S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Generica S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jell-O Brand Napalm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Killian's Red S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leaning Pillar T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pass The Tanning Butter S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pseudo Bullet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumcat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quayle Eats Bush T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Yell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resolution, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Runt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Silver Bullet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunset Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tanning Butter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thin Lizzie (Dodging Ions) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Dumb to Sleep In T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkletoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under The Wire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (G) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lot of Drunk S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Richard Berk
Page Views: 1,661 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Feb 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the strikingly obvious crack system just around the corner to the right of "Resolution". It is thinner, steeper, and more difficult than it looks. While you can generally lace it up with thin gear, expect to develop a major pump. Three stars for great movement, continuity, involved sequences, and good holds. The VS rating comes from a pair of bowling ball sized blocks hanging in the crack at 2/3 height, and the 5' high detached flake precariously balanced on a 3" ledge at the top. You don't need to touch these features, but you'll need to be very careful to avoid them. 30 seconds with a crowbar and a fixed anchor on top would make turn it into a user-friendly classic.

Protection

Wires, TCUs, cams to 1.5".

Photos

richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
I put up Jell-o Brand Napalm which certainly was not 11 or X - but I could not swear, using this description, that it is the route in question. Jul 14, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
david, your problem with redundancy stems from your reliance on Hubble's guidebook. The thing is, ever since he started publishing guides, Peter would name any crack that looked climbable, without knowing if it had actually been done. The name of his first book was The Brown Book of Lies.

Alan was good to warn folks of the loose block problem with the X rating. Alan Nelson was also the best thing that ever happened to climbing in Golden. I led this myself in 1991. If he wanted to name the route Thin Crack, then I'm down with that!

Since Alan died last December your blog makes you look like the kind of guy who likes to kick people when they are down. Are you really that kind of guy? Remove your comment and then I'll take this off too.

Jul 12, 2008