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Routes in Winterfest Wall

A Quark for Quayle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Abortion Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anartichoke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Rattler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo in Limbo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Brokendown Shanty T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Loves Detroit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat's Meow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Consolation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissolution, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Driving Over Stella S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dumb Politicians T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dweeb T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractions S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Generica S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jell-O Brand Napalm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Killian's Red S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leaning Pillar T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pass The Tanning Butter S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pseudo Bullet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumcat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quayle Eats Bush T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Yell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resolution, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Runt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Silver Bullet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunset Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tanning Butter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thin Lizzie (Dodging Ions) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Dumb to Sleep In T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkletoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under The Wire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (G) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lot of Drunk S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,244 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Leaning Pillar has always seemed a bit goofy to me. Protected first by one bolt, then by two, the climbing has always seemed as though something was missing in the conceptualization. The route starts left of the Dissolution/Resolution face climbs by first starting up the corner. Traverse out left for a clip after 15 feet and head up on good edges to a crack system and a clip just before the cracks. The rational climber may elect to fire in a #3 Camalot above the second clip, or just grab the good jams and suck in a small amount of air. The anchor is over a ledge and out of sight. This is not a great route, but the stone is solid.

Protection

Bring a couple of draws, a mid-size camming device, and a rope. There is a double bolt anchor at the top. As of 2007, it has been updated to be 6 bolts.

Photos

Todd Ritter
Lafayette
  5.10c
Todd Ritter   Lafayette
  5.10c
Good work, Ken. Protects well with bolts only. Great moves and fun route. Apr 23, 2016
goingUp
over here
  5.10b/c
goingUp   over here
  5.10b/c
Incredibly well-protected now, all bolts, solid 10, and the necessary crux holds still hold their edges... unlike a lot of other N. Table routes. Oct 17, 2013
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
All bolts now, well protected and very fun, one of my favorite routes on North Table. Oct 17, 2010
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10b
I got rid of my old open hooks and replaced them with 1/2" bolts and winch hooks, down a bit for better hooks orientation. The original bolt snapped off pretty easy but are plenty of bolts now. Could be the best protected 5.10 at Table. After adding one bolt and an anchor 15 years ago I expected this route to catch on but it never did. Not usually good to change other's routes, but this always seemed an orphan needing some care.

As a pure gear lead, you'll need small wires, Aliens, and remember to "stick your chest out, keep your head up...and handy" (Tupac). "R" with no bolt clipped.

I'm almost positive this was a Berk brothers' route. The original bolt was the same style found on Flight 66, it's one of the least contrived tens at Table, and only the Berks were putting up routes this hard in the eighties. Dec 21, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This is a fun mixed route. It could probably be lead without any of the 2 bolts, with RPs, nuts, and small cams. There are 2 open [shuts] at the top. Jan 10, 2004