Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jeff Brown,1988, on gear? Alan Nelson, Spring 2001?
Page Views: 1,240 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

First bolted line left of Sunset Arete and one of four new lines in this area, this un-named Alan Nelson route begs the question: "Why didn't we do this before?" Fire up a thin tips-seam for four bolts just adjacent to Sunset Arete. Pull into a corner system for a casual cruise to the top. The real crux lies in finding some feet for the seam at the start. I thought that a good strong lay back using soft slippers gave sufficient friction to make this not harder than 5.11b, perhaps easier if you are tall. There may be some edges on the left, but gag, where? Fine addition by Das Routemeister. Good stone, well protected, fun moves. All we need are the babes (this part was so much easier previously???).

Protection

QDs only. This 55 foot route needs 8 to 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Very short crux with a perfect hole for your left big toe and a killer one-finger jam for the middle finger of your right hand. Fun. Apr 29, 2006
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
David, why on Earth would you quote Hubbel's guide as some kind of authority? Hubbel has always named cracks that were never climbed. His first book to the Platte was called The Brown Book of Lies. No FA parties are listed usually.

Please remove your comments about Alan. He died three months ago. You're presenting yourself as a guy who likes to kick people when they're down. Jul 12, 2008
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Not to take sides on the issue, but for historical accuracy, this was actually first done by Jeff Brown in 1988 and called Jeff's Third Climb. If you can manage to find a copy, you can refer to Berk's 1990 guidebook to Table Mountain called "You Are Welcome to Walk: Free Climbs of North Table Mountain, Colorado". Jul 13, 2008
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11b/c
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11b/c
Fun route, great moves, upper part backs off considerably. Oct 7, 2012