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Routes in Winterfest Wall

A Quark for Quayle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Abortion Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anartichoke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Rattler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo in Limbo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Brokendown Shanty T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Loves Detroit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat's Meow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Consolation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissolution, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Driving Over Stella S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dumb Politicians T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dweeb T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractions S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Generica S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jell-O Brand Napalm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Killian's Red S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leaning Pillar T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pass The Tanning Butter S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pseudo Bullet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumcat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quayle Eats Bush T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Yell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resolution, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Runt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Silver Bullet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunset Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tanning Butter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thin Lizzie (Dodging Ions) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Dumb to Sleep In T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkletoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under The Wire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (G) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lot of Drunk S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave, Annette, and Ken, 1990
Page Views: 1,384 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The sole 5.12 in the Winterfest Wall area. Pseudo Bullet is a rare bolted FA by the consumate boulderer Dave Twinam. Turns out he can climb as well, and climb damn well to boot. Ditto Annette, his partner in this excellent route; she is also a brilliant climber whose name should always be somewhere near the tip of our climber's tongues. The climbing on Pseudo Bullet starts in the main Winterfest Wall area, several routes to the right of Rebel Yell. A thin fin-like structure on the right launches the climb. Pitch to the top of the fin and ace the first 5.12a move. A fair stretch of easy climbing on good edges takes you to a nice face and a tricky attack on the left hand arete and the second crux at 5.12a. A quick little hop around to get established on the arete leads to a beautiful square cut jug, a couple of moves, and the anchor. A word of warning: the anchor on Pseudo Bullet is badly in need of up-dating. It will suffice for raps, but if you top rope the route it would be a good idea to back clip a bolt below. Repair of this anchor, the route's only flaw, is on the docket for the spring of 2001.

Protection

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Matt Battaglia
  5.12a/b
Matt Battaglia  
  5.12a/b
Best done on a cool and crispy day, but that probably goes without saying... but not worth it if it is a cool and crispy day to go up here to do this route. Must do if you're at Table and climb 5.12, sweaty or not. 11c/d crux down low, 12a/b crux up high (height-dependent). Mar 21, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Think this would be a hard onsight. Once you know the moves, it's 12a-ish. Dec 7, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
FIRST ASCENT: Dave, Annette, and Ken, 1990. But it was Dave's drill that really got the job done. Pseudo Bullet and Sunset Arete (hand drilled) were the first true sport routes at Table. Nov 29, 2007
jj
  5.11d
jj  
  5.11d
I thought with a little bit of work, Pseudo Bullet fit together rather easily, especially taking to the crimps on the upper crux, made the climb significantly easier.... Is going over there right? I've never sent 5.12 and I did this in 5 tries. Jan 23, 2004
While the cruxes are relatively short, they are powerful very crimpy at times. I too thought this one was solid for a grade, although on a cooler or cloudier day the first crux may be easier. I thought it weighed in with Clear Creek .12a/b s as well. Apr 20, 2003
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
 
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
 
Is this a really hard 12a, or am I just a wuss? The 2 distinct cruxes both felt much harder than the cruxes of routes like "The Ticket" or "Plan B" in Boulder Canyon. Mar 31, 2003