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Pseudo Bullet

5.12a/b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 24 votes
FA: Dave, Annette, and Ken, 1990
Colorado > Golden > N Table Mountai… > Winterfest Wall
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Description

The sole 5.12 in the Winterfest Wall area. Pseudo Bullet is a rare bolted FA by the consumate boulderer Dave Twinam. Turns out he can climb as well, and climb damn well to boot. Ditto Annette, his partner in this excellent route; she is also a brilliant climber whose name should always be somewhere near the tip of our climber's tongues. The climbing on Pseudo Bullet starts in the main Winterfest Wall area, several routes to the right of Rebel Yell. A thin fin-like structure on the right launches the climb. Pitch to the top of the fin and ace the first 5.12a move. A fair stretch of easy climbing on good edges takes you to a nice face and a tricky attack on the left hand arete and the second crux at 5.12a. A quick little hop around to get established on the arete leads to a beautiful square cut jug, a couple of moves, and the anchor. A word of warning: the anchor on Pseudo Bullet is badly in need of up-dating. It will suffice for raps, but if you top rope the route it would be a good idea to back clip a bolt below. Repair of this anchor, the route's only flaw, is on the docket for the spring of 2001.

Protection

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first 4 bolts - there are 9 total. This is the low crux up the arete.
[Hide Photo] The first 4 bolts - there are 9 total. This is the low crux up the arete.
The climb.
[Hide Photo] The climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stefan Griebel
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Is this a really hard 12a, or am I just a wuss? The 2 distinct cruxes both felt much harder than the cruxes of routes like "The Ticket" or "Plan B" in Boulder Canyon. Mar 31, 2003
[Hide Comment] While the cruxes are relatively short, they are powerful very crimpy at times. I too thought this one was solid for a grade, although on a cooler or cloudier day the first crux may be easier. I thought it weighed in with Clear Creek .12a/b s as well. Apr 20, 2003
jj
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] I thought with a little bit of work, Pseudo Bullet fit together rather easily, especially taking to the crimps on the upper crux, made the climb significantly easier.... Is going over there right? I've never sent 5.12 and I did this in 5 tries. Jan 23, 2004
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] FIRST ASCENT: Dave, Annette, and Ken, 1990. But it was Dave's drill that really got the job done. Pseudo Bullet and Sunset Arete (hand drilled) were the first true sport routes at Table. Nov 29, 2007
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Think this would be a hard onsight. Once you know the moves, it's 12a-ish. Dec 7, 2008
Matthew Battaglia
Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Best done on a cool and crispy day, but that probably goes without saying... but not worth it if it is a cool and crispy day to go up here to do this route. Must do if you're at Table and climb 5.12, sweaty or not. 11c/d crux down low, 12a/b crux up high (height-dependent). Mar 21, 2010