Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Wright, 1993
Page Views: 1,054 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 19, 2002 with updates from Jay Eggleston
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a fun line with a bouldery, technical start, and a sustained, pumpy finish, split by moderate climbing and a big ledge.

Stick clip the first bolt, then make easy moves to gain the prow. Work up along the thin crack, to a rattly block in the pod. Make a big move to a slopey ledge and mantel. Cruise up tiered ledges to reach the looming arete. Technical reaches and balancey high-steps work up the high quality arete to the anchor. For full value, avoid stemming to either corner adjacent to the arete.

Protection

Ten draws for 7 bolts and a rope. A stick clip recommended for the first bolt. Alternatibely, a #0 TCU or equivalent nut slots perfectly in the thin crack that marks the start of the boulder problem.

Location

Just right of Silver Bullet is a blunt prow with a mini-dihedral/flare/pod feature ~15 feet up. Anartichoke climbs the prow via bolts, then tacks the recessed arete above.

Photos

Ditto Whole Lotta Drunk, there are many routes I have lost track of over the years, but there are a few that I distinctly remember naming & wouldn't have named had I not been on the FA. There are somewhere between 50 and 100 routes in CCC, Table and a few other areas that my name wasn't associated with the FA though, despite drilling, cleaning or sending, so it may be hard to totally reconstruct the somewhat irrelevant FA info. Jul 14, 2008
FA - TA (+RW) Feb. 1993. Jul 15, 2008
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.10d
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.10d
On this route, I identified the line, placed the bolts, and led it first. Nonetheless, I certainly did not do it alone, nor any other climb for that matter. As we try to sort out accurate FA data for Mark Rolofoson's forthcoming guide to NTM, the FA data are important since this is something Mark has tried to be particularly fastidious about in all of his guides.

This brings up an important point of general significance. We commonly see FA reports that cite only a single climber, and unless the route was done solo this cannot be much of a reflection of the route's origin. I know that TA is right on in noting that he has not been cited on some climbs in the front range where this would be appropriate. Many of the ascents that Alan Nelson and I did together likewise show only a single FA climber. We should get this right. While a partner in a new ascent may not get the first red point, they may very well have contributed significantly and materially to the route's creation and can provide explicit verification as to the route's genesis. Furthermore, identifying the line, cleaning it, bolting it if that occurs, sorting out cruxes, belaying a partner, leading the route, supplying the gear, etc, etc, etc are all parts of the ascent in which the partner may be involved, and without these contributions the line would not exist. I know that I have been guilty of not always citing a key partner in a FA, an oversight mistake I won't make again. Perhaps it would be appropriate to always require more complete FA information when new routes do get posted. Jul 16, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
It sounds like Tod and Richard need to sit down with Mark and a route map, have a couple of beers, and swap a few "facts". Jul 16, 2008