Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: B. Gillett, S. McMahan, 1998
Page Views: 501 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun little mixed climb slightly left of the center of this little cliff. It is the left of the 2 bolted mixed starts on the slightly overhanging rock where the trail typically comes up to the cliff.

In general, this climb seems to require more smooth weight transfers on thin rock and ice holds. It seems from the crampons scratches that there are 2 starts, left & right. The left start goes near the pin. The right start skips the pin but seemed more solid with a good right slot to a long reach to a good edge. From either start, clip a beefy bolt and then engage the crux as you try to get your feet up to a small ledge about 12 feet up. This requires piecing together a sequence from a variety of options on thin rock and then thin ice holds. Continue up thin, less-than-vertical ice in a groove past 2 more beefy bolts with an optional stubby placement between and above the bolt. Continue up to the tree at 45 feet.

Rap or traverse right on snow to gain thin ice and continue up to the top of On the Rocks. 90 feet.

From an email conversation with Bernard, he relates that he climbed it with Black Prophets and old leashes and ill-fitting crampons. I found you can even climb it with alpine crampons with a TR. Fun. Enjoy. Thanks, Bernard.

Protection

3-4 QDs for 3 bolts & a pin, maybe a few stubbies. Faith.

Toprope Protection

From the top of the cliff, slings off a medium-sized tree with rings & a 60m rope. A directional half way down off a tree with slings is optional.

Also, you can rap down to another tree with slings about 45 feet.

Photos