Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||B. Gillett, S. McMahan, 1998|
|Page Views:||671 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
In general, this climb seems to require more smooth weight transfers on thin rock and ice holds. It seems from the crampons scratches that there are 2 starts, left & right. The left start goes near the pin. The right start skips the pin but seemed more solid with a good right slot to a long reach to a good edge. From either start, clip a beefy bolt and then engage the crux as you try to get your feet up to a small ledge about 12 feet up. This requires piecing together a sequence from a variety of options on thin rock and then thin ice holds. Continue up thin, less-than-vertical ice in a groove past 2 more beefy bolts with an optional stubby placement between and above the bolt. Continue up to the tree at 45 feet.
Rap or traverse right on snow to gain thin ice and continue up to the top of On the Rocks. 90 feet.
From an email conversation with Bernard, he relates that he climbed it with Black Prophets and old leashes and ill-fitting crampons. I found you can even climb it with alpine crampons with a TR. Fun. Enjoy. Thanks, Bernard.